Salt Water For Breakast

Got to Lindamar Beach around 9am. As I was driving on the One and as I usually do, I take a quick peak at Rockaway Beach. I was a bit surprised, as the waves were much bigger then usual. When I walked to the beach from the second parking lot past the Taco Bell I was struck by the vision of waves that were head high +. I was pretty excited, that is until I got caught in the milk. The waves just kept coming, non-stop for about an hour. By the time I got past the break, I was beat!

I was determined to catch a “big” wave. I wanted to test my new skills on something big and rough! I ended up catching a wave that was taller then me. I’m 5’8, so this had to be a six footer or bigger. Mind you, I’m on my 7 footer (board) now. I usually have to wait for a peak to happen to catch a wave, but today, it really didn’t matter, the waves were coming fast and they were pretty thick with a lot of power behind them. I caught this wave a few yards from where it was breaking. I popped up easily and I screamed down the face making a right. Just before I hit bottom, I turned it up and went up the wave. Then just before the crest, I leaned back and screamed down the face again. I wanted to do that again! But it didn’t work out. I screamed back up the face but leaned too far back and fell straight on my back from about 6 feet up. I was caught in the wash. It pulled me, rolled me, tugged me, choked me. I tried to stay calm, but after 10 seconds of being in a washing machine, I knew I had to get up for some air. I tried to find bottom so I can push up, but I was too deep. I just started paddling up, and about 10 seconds later I found air.

I thought I was done for! But that wasn’t the end of it. I was caught in the death zone and for about 5 minutes I was just ducking one monster after another trying to remember the #1 safety rule of surfing, hold on to your board! I ended up catching about 6 waves that were 5-7 feet high. I loved popping up on the top and screaming down! It was such a rush.

I ended up surfing another 4 hour session, but then I caught another shot of surfer’s rib. It’s a pain that is usually on your rib cage from lying on your board face down (which you are usually in when paddling out or catching a wave). I’ve had it on my left ribs before, but now my right ribs are hurting. It usually goes a way in a week and your ribs are much stronger after. And you get some definition there, which is a good thing when your shirt is off. I don’t mind it, it’s part of being a kook. I had fun today, survived a massive wave and finally started taking down some bigger monsters. I’m looking forward to Monday, when I’ll be hitting up the Bo’!