Why?

All the surf reports said that waves were too mushy, it was too windy, too choppy.  All my friends saw the reports too and ran errands instead.  My wife wondered why I wanted to surf when it was cold and cloudy.  I drove by 4 beaches, disappointed by what the sea showed me.  Why?  Why go through all the trouble to pack all my gear, including two boards into my car?  Why put $20 in the tank already knowing the surf sucks?  Why drive 38 miles up and down the coast searching for one nice wave to ride?  Why undress in a parking lot that’s windy and cold, and put on a wet wetsuit?  Why go through all the trouble when everybody, including your own ego is telling you it is not worth it today?

Why?  Because when I hit the water, I’m in the moment.  Work stress disappears.  Life stress disappears.  Family stress disappears.  It all disappears.  The monkey on my back can’t swim, so he waits at the shore.  My shoulders start to relax and my mind is free.  I’m able to meditate, get out of myself without closing my eyes or reading a chant or getting into weird poses.  I’m free.  Free to be me, free to let the inner child have fun.  Free to be free.  Endorphins naturally flow like each little wave that passes under my board while I wait for the right one to catch.  I get a free high.  Solace.  Peace. Freedom.  Happiness.  Joy.  Thrill. Fulfillment.  Even if I don’t catch anything today, I will have no regrets.  Connection.  Connection to the element, to the source, what ever it maybe.
Why?  Because three hours before and three hours later, I already knew it was worth it.