-Photo by Vonstanger (stokereport.com handle)
I’ve surfed a lot of places over the last nine months. I’ve made my way through the localism of Santa Cruz and Bolinas. Took my beatings at Linda Mar. Caught the magic of Rincon. Got tubed on the North Shore. Shared waves with Kelly Slater at Trestles.
But still, after all this experience (still limited), I must say, my own personal proving ground to test my skill and will, will always be the fair lady, the Queen, Mother Ocean Beach. All that experience, all the hard work, and all the blood is not going to allow you to make the paddle out. Only sure will. Mother OB will try to literally kill you on a heavy day. She will try to drown you on a soft day. She will reward you with tube. She will take back her prize with a sweeper. She will torture you and love you at the same time. I love her.
Ocean Beach will always be the proving ground for the people that I surf with. If you cannot at least make the paddle out, I don’t want to hear about all your adventures. If you don’t think your ready to step on her beautiful sand, don’t tell me you surf. Until I see you out in the lineup, even on a soft day and catch one of her beauty’s, you will always remain a land lover in my book. But then again, after we hit the first bar, we will probably get separated and I will not find you again until the end of the session where we will give each other high fives, knowing that we lived to surf another day.
I’ve surfed a lot of places over the last nine months. I’ve made my way through the localism of Santa Cruz and Bolinas. Took my beatings at Linda Mar. Caught the magic of Rincon. Got tubed on the North Shore. Shared waves with Kelly Slater at Trestles.
But still, after all this experience (still limited), I must say, my own personal proving ground to test my skill and will, will always be the fair lady, the Queen, Mother Ocean Beach. All that experience, all the hard work, and all the blood is not going to allow you to make the paddle out. Only sure will. Mother OB will try to literally kill you on a heavy day. She will try to drown you on a soft day. She will reward you with tube. She will take back her prize with a sweeper. She will torture you and love you at the same time. I love her.
Ocean Beach will always be the proving ground for the people that I surf with. If you cannot at least make the paddle out, I don’t want to hear about all your adventures. If you don’t think your ready to step on her beautiful sand, don’t tell me you surf. Until I see you out in the lineup, even on a soft day and catch one of her beauty’s, you will always remain a land lover in my book. But then again, after we hit the first bar, we will probably get separated and I will not find you again until the end of the session where we will give each other high fives, knowing that we lived to surf another day.
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