Friday, June 29, 2012

Super Fresh Surf Pictures Ghetto Style!

We were able to get some super fresh surf pictures during our our last surf trip.  I posted a few on Twitter and on Facebook.  Got some emails from folks asking (imagine a Keanu Reeves surfer voice) "Super tasty pictures bro! Who'd you hire?"

Moments later, I pearled on this wave.  I shit you not!

The answer is, I did it ghetto style!

The Krapp Sacker
All you need is a camera that films in the water (we used the GoPro Hero 2), an iphone, your computer and Instagram.  And viola!  Super tasty pictures (dude)!

Panama Red
Step 1:  All you do is pull up the video from your session on your computer, in large the video so that it is fully on your screen.

Sir Manav
Step 2:  You pause a frame from the video that you really like.

Step 3:  Then you bust out your iphone (or any other smart phone that is compatible with the app Instagram) and take a picture of a frame that you really like off of your computer screen.

Mister Furry

Step 4:  Finally, you then go to Instagram (a great app for most smart phones), find an enhancer that you really like and BAM!  You got a "super tasty" surf picture at the cost of nada!

It's not going to look perfect, you might see some pixels from your computer screen, but if you ask me, it comes out pretty well and it's virtually free! 

You can also find me at:

 Twitter @ Kooking it UP's Twitter

Vimeo @ Wacky Kooking it UP's videos

Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!

Thursday, June 28, 2012

Surfboards, Trains and Automobiles

Panama Red guarding the quiver and failing epically.
According to Siri, San Clemente is 7 hours and 28 minutes away from San Francisco.  Five cups of coffee, 3 Waffles, bowl full of gravy and three pieces of chicken, it seemed more like three hours away. 
Panama Red teaching this kid how to pearl.
While sitting around the campfire, Panama Red was reminiscing about his epic lefts while living in New Zealand.  All of a sudden, this little girl riding her bike past our campsite yelled "Kiwi Hippies!"  After a few laughs and "Where the hell did that shit come from?" Don Corleone looked over at me and said "We are now the 'Kiwi Hippies'."  When the Godfather speaks, you just listen.  And that is how the Kiwi Hippies came to be.

Keeping warmed up without a wetsuit.
After testing the water at Uppers, I said what the heck, stuck on my new Patagonia Wavefarers and a surf Jersey and paddled out.  Dub Sack and Manav decided to join me.  After about an hour, I look back and both of them kats were in wetsuits!  WTF? That water had to be an upwards of 65 degrees while it was about 80 degrees outside.  Three hours later as dusk hit, I still wasn't cold.  The next day I wore my 4/3 and thereafter. 
Day camp for middle aged kids.
Surf, sun, sand and beer.  What more can a brotha ask for?  That was pretty much our trip.  We would do a morning sesh, kick it on the beach and watch others surf, decide to suit up again and hit it for an afternoon sesh.  I think we actually did three sessions in one day.  The one thing about Trestles is that there is no shade.  So all of my Caucasian brothers on the trip were no longer Caucasian after five days of blazing sun.  One of them came up to me and said "Brown and proud!" with his fist in the air. 

Lowers peaking up in the background.
The U.S. Under 18 surf championship was happening at Lowers most of our trip.  But on our way to "Trails" on Saturday we noticed that the buoys for the competition were removed.  I assumed that this meant it was over and Lowers was open to the public.  Manav and I decided that we were going to wake up at 4:30am and paddle out and test our skills at this legendary point break.  

Trail head from the Basilone exit.
Not only is Lowers a legendary wave, but so is the trek.  From the Cristianitos trail head, it probably had to be two and a half miles.  With our boards, wetsuit and towel, two and a half miles felt more like four.  Being a bunch of Trestle Kooks, there is street path from Basilone that would have cut the trek in half.  At least Manav and I spent some quality time together (don't worry, nothing happened Ruth). 

Manav scoping Lowers for SoCal babes at five a.m.
I've surfed Lowers twice, as a kook and as a novice kook.  Lowers has always been a place where I test myself to see where my skill level is at.  Even though people are pretty courteous out in the lineup, they aren't gonna give any waves away. When a set is on the horizon, fight for pole position is at it's best out there.  I was able to catch five waves, three being really good ones in an hour and half.  Manav did the same but was killing it on the lefts.  One lesson learned from Lowers:  to make a really sharp cutback frontside, I stuck my front heal into the middle of the board and pressed hard.  Finally got some sweet spray!  Plus this heal action sets my body up for turning my body back around to steam down the line.  I'm getting there folks!

Roscoe's Chicken and Waffles on Pico in L.A.

All good things come to an end and we returned back to reality on Monday with a big thug.  I still have epic dreams about spots called Lowers, Uppers, Cottons, Middles and Trails.  I don't know anywhere in the world that has a stretch of beach with so many breaks for so many skill levels.  Yes, there is the North Shore and the Gold Coast but the waves at the first spot can kill you and the latter spot is to far away for whats in my checking account.  At Trestles, all I have gotten was big smiles, good conversation and pleasant hellos.  And I always spend next to nothing, including for food (Pedro Tacos has bomb burritos for under $5).  I've never noticed any agros or surf nazi's like elsewhere.  This spot exemplifies Aloha.   

Wetsuit Row
We plan on coming back yearly.  Trips are cool, but it's the company that makes it epic.  Like I said before and I'll say it again, I am blessed to be surfing with the best crew on the planet.  Next year we all plan to get "Kiwi Hippies" tattooed on our chests.  Weeeeeee!

You can also find me at:

 Twitter @ Kooking it UP's Twitter

Vimeo @ Wacky Kooking it UP's videos

Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave! 

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

The Extra Mile

- The crew

There is this spot a couple miles south of Santa Cruz that we've been going to lately.  If the waves in Town are 3-4 feet, this spot will be 5-6 feet.  Me and Panama Red surfed this place in the winter and got decimated!  I have to give Panama some props because he stuck it out on the inside on that day and went for it!  But there is always a price to pay.  He got destroyed on a thick and fast eight footer, we're talking human body and board over the falls destroyed!  Some lady that was paddling back out looked at me and said worryingly "I hope he's still alive...".

- BD on some spring mush at the "Mile".
The Duck and I were out there last summer in 2011 on a moderate South Swell and we got decimated that day too.  The walls were super steep and fast.  I was able to catch two on that day.  Two waves were worth the punishment.  I think back now about this first encounter with this wave and I can't believe that I tried to surf this spot with only 4 months under my belt.  Ignorance is bliss I guess.

 - Party wave with the crew. 

Now days, I'm into steep faces, fast drops and big bottom turns.  I've been trying to grab a barrel out here (at least ones that won't closeout eighty percent of the time like the ones at OB).  I've been copying the pros by sticking my right arm in the wave to decrease my speed.  It works, but I been getting mostly mad hatters instead of anything legit.  I'm waiting for the south swells to pick up.  When the south's hit this spot, the waves are a lot longer.  The longer the waves at this spot, the more chances for a barrel because the wave hits different sections and walls up for some sick action.

I can't say the least about this spot a couple miles south of the Town.  It is beautiful, somewhat remote and resembles something like what would be an undeveloped coast.  Plus, I like driving back up North to The City on the One.  I think it's one of the most beautiful stretches of road in the world.

Here is a video of our session at this spot a few weeks ago.

You can also find me at:

 Twitter @ Kooking it UP's Twitter

Vimeo @ Wacky Kooking it UP's videos

Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!

Monday, June 18, 2012

Linda Mar Saturdays!

(From the Dunes off of Lawton at Ocean Beach)

Did my normal Saturday morning wave check at Ocean Beach, but instead of checking the cam I decided to drive out and walk up the dunes.  Tide was low, so the waves were breaking on any sand bump that was out there.  I figured it would get better in a few hours, but I didn't have a few hours so I drove south to Pacifica.  I checked out Rockaway but it was mega crowded.  And there is only one peak, so I drove to Linda Mar, and by God, there were some nice sets coming in.  But if you have ever surfed Lindy on a Saturday, it's always super, mega crowded.

I decided that I needed to get out there anyway.  I suited up and paddled out on the north side of the beach.  And to my surprise, the waves were thick, walled up, holding up, and steep.  It was super quiet out there in the lineup. I guess it got serious for once at good ol' Lindy.  When Lindy gets head high, there are plenty of waves to be had because most of the beginners (as I was a year ago) will paddle out to avoid the crashing lip.  So for more experienced novices, we can catch just about anything head high with no issues.  I caught a few nuggets and got blown up by one.  The walls were steep and I got a rush from that vertigo feeling one gets on a steep wave.

Then the Half Moon Bay boys came out on their long boards and crowded one of the peaks that was handing out a sweet right.  I was able to catch one, but that was about it.  I got out at about 12, sun burnt to a crisp and headed home.  Once I got home I think I slept like 4 hours.  Sun did me damage but overall, was pretty stoked by a beach that I generally avoid like the plague on Saturdays.

My Move from Tumblr to Blogger

If you have noticed why the dates are all screwy next to each of my articles and why they were posted on three similar days, here is my explanation. Over the last week, I've been transferring my entire blog, at least my worthy content from Tumblr to Blogger. I just felt that this was a more appropriate forum for my quirky thoughts around my surfing experience.  Blogger also gives me more space so I can stretch my arms out a little bit more. Don't get me wrong, I love Tumblr and it is very accessible, but in my experience, it is more "picture" driven rather then by written content. I'm hoping that those of you who use to check out my blog on Tumblr will come by and check out this blog from time to time. And those who are new to my wacky surf life will bookmark this page, pull up a chair with a cup of Joe and have a laugh or two with me. I will continue to post on Tumblr occasionally, but I think this is my new home for my stumbling, pearling thoughts.

You can also find me at:

 Twitter @ Kooking it UP's Twitter

Vimeo @ Wacky Kooking it UP's videos

Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!

Manav's New Board

My buddy Manav’s new board, costum shaped by San Francisco Ocean Beach’s Danny Hess.

Sweet Hybird. Only way to go if you get a custom.

Logo created by Ruth Basagoitia (she also created my logo).  I’m loving the logo and the shape.

Let’s go surf brah!

Sunday, June 17, 2012

I Love The City of All Cities!

Good day for bikes in The City (San Francisco Baby!).

Orginal Video Alert: Florida Mile

One of those “is this swell for reals?” spring days. We went out anyway… and scored. Filmed June 2, 2012.

Featuring:  The B-F'ing-D, Panama F'ing Red, The F'ing Duck and Dub F'ing Sack!

Warmth and No Rash

You saved us from the cold.  This one’s for you Jack!

WTF is Rocker?

I got asked a similar question a few weeks ago. I found this today and I’m hopeful this will answer a pretty normal question very quickly about a surfboard’s shape and how that equates to it’s performance.
This info was taken from:

Check Yo Self Befo' You Reck Yo Self

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not a surf spot snob, but I have to go through daily trials of finding my way through territorial locals to get great and unique waves.  This is just good advice. And to tell the truth, I have only watched.  I haven't grown the balls to paddle out yet!

Ankle Slappin'

Surfing Sewers in Santa Cruz on Saturday.Thought it was small, but at least this wave was head high…

Get Some


This was recorded “since 1926”. My saying is getting bit is like winning the lotto, one in a gazillion chance.

Seabright Beach in Santa Cruz.

This is Panama Red's hood.  Lucky fucking Haole!

Perfect Day in Santa Cruz.

Flat as hell, but beautiful non the less.

Gotta Love Our Nor Cal Coast.

January at The Hook

Such an epic day.

The adventure begins once your lost

How we do in NorCal.

Bay to Breakers

For all you Bay to Breaker kids this weekend.

Cowell’s on steroids.


Just Saying

You can be grey and still get barreled.  
@ Weasels in Santa Cruz.

photo by


 Whenever I’m in the flow of things out there in the lineup, this song is on repeat in my membrane.

Saturday and Sunday

Weekend Warriors…  I’m down there somewhere.  LOL!

20 until T-Land

You know where my minds at…


I see these guys in the water all the time.  They pop there head up, take a look, take a sniff and then take off. But today while surfing at the Jetty in Half Moon Bay, me and two other fellas noticed a harbor seal swimming hard and fast toward us with it’s head above the water.  Was he chasing us?  Or was he being chased?  The answer:  Get the hell out of the water!  And that is what we did.

The Duck + Pura Vida = Epicness.

My boy Brandon, AKA “The Duck”, or what the women call him AKA “The Greek God”, getting some Pura Vida in Costa Rica.  So stoked for you bro, you deserved it!
Back to the 4/3 brotha!  Lol!

I love you, you speed bumping, leash tangling, slimy feeling kelp.

How I miss the winter and those waves that made me want to run and hide….

The Lane.  Middle Peak.  Firing.

Not at a beach, but this will do.

A well fed car alarm…

I wish I had this security alarm with my car to watch over my cell and wallet while I'm out in the lineup...

Rockaway Beach in Pacifica Ca. I love you NorCal.

Empire Strikes Back!

Has nothing to do with surfing, but everything to do with surfing at the same time.