Saturday, August 30, 2014

Dear Marie


I paddled out to one of my local reefs on Thursday evening.  It's quite a paddle when it's low tide and a large amount of swell.  Choppy, some current,  but nothing serious, the waves were breaking on the semi outer reef, and I just paddle around the oncoming wash.  My shoulders were aching from all the surfing over the last week and a half (I know, boo hoo, self loathing...  guilty).  I slightly tweeked my neck, God knows how the day before but my lower back felt fine and my entire being just wanted to be in the middle of all that liquid thumping that was happening on the outside.  I paddled closer to the peak and saw this goofy footed fella catching a left.  He was looking straight ahead on what had to be a 8ft+ dredger.  It began to barrel over his head for a second or two.  The noise the wave created was loud.  The loudness it created was a deep, echoing sound.  The kind of sound that reverberates down your spine.  The fella didn't even know he was getting barreled in a crouching tube.  "Did I get tubed?" he asked me a few minutes later in the lineup.  "Sure looked like it."  I replied.  He smiled.  "Dear Marie," was his reply.


Joel Tudor on a quick exit.
Back to back hurricane swells.  Well, tropical storms to be exact.  But strong enough to offer the California coast with waves for days.  Sixty to Hundred miles north of San Diego, the swell was reaching the death defying heights of fifteen to twenty feet.  Some labeled last Wednesday, August 27th, "Big Wednesday".  But in San Diego, it was a good 6-8ft, with a couple sets reaching in the 9-10ft range.  It wasn't huge, and it stayed really manageable, lots of waves and the swell fell on a weekday, keeping the crowds, at least at the reefs where I surf, manageable.  In addition, Tropical Storm Lowell  sent a lot of swell our way the weekend before, which lead to a lot of surfers reaching their limit of how many days they could surf in a row. 


Marie for all of her hype, in my opinion, and at least in San Diego, wasn't as good as the Tropical Storm "Lowell" swell.  The water was super murky, the wind turned up earlier in the morning and lasted til sunset, and the waves were less consistent (even though it was pretty consistent, and that's saying something about Lowell), and the waves didn't have the power that Lowell blessed us with.  Lowell was like a mid period swell with the "umph" of a long period swell.  I didn't travel north during the peak of Marie (why travel when waves are going off in the backyard right?) but I saw pictures and video of NewPort Point, and that stuff looked major.  I guess the swell was so steep, that San Diego probably got the edge of that red blob while Newport got the full grunt.  It's not that I'm complaining, I had a lot of great waves, green room time and almost a near drowning by way of my rashgaurd being pulled over my head.  Marie lived up to the hype, but I still think Lowell was the better swell, at least in my "hood".

Exit this.
But to be honest, I'm pretty surfed out.  I'm just glad that my lower back made it out proper.  I haven't felt an ache (knock on wood) since I started focusing workouts on my core.  I'm taking a big break from surfing for the next five days or so.  We have our annual "crew" trip coming up next week, and I know we'll be surfing at least six hours a day.  Top that off with the usual craziness and unplanned adventures that come with a Kiwi Hippie Trip, rest is what the doctor ordered.  And there is a decent swell on tap, this time a long period 18 to 20 second thing.  But as with any long period swell, it's always a "wait and see".   The waves travel from so far away, you never know what dame or dude it'll hook up with on it's way to our coast.  But just in case it finds it's way to the loving arms of California's west coast, I know just the spot that will offer up 100 yard rights.  But thank you tropical storm, hurricane wave machines!!!  It was a long time coming.

One way to make the drop.

I sat on a bench on the hill for an hour and saw this guy make two saves on Thursday.

Tudor using his "Mr. San Diego" pass.

Thursday.  Again, Tudor finding another tube.

Marine Street looked fun.  Check that kid running into the surf just behind the skim boarder.  Pure stoke.
There were a lot of semi guns in the lineup.  I didn't think they were needed.
This guy had a lot of green room time. 
Full on, inside the womb time.
Sucks when your boss can out surf you.  At least on this wave.


Sunday, August 24, 2014

"Lowell" and Behold




I love long period South swells just as much as everybody else.  But when a significant storm builds in the tropics just south of us, and then gets a name, I can dig that too.  This swell was around 10 to 12 seconds rather than the standard 14 - 16 second south swell, swell period.  Rather then sitting around for a half hour waiting on sets like on most south swells, our south facing beach breaks and reefs (and the ones across the boarder) became instant wave machines.

Some random guy on a charismatic wave.
The waves weren't huge, and the the spots where the waves decided to break weren't as usual, but hey, when waves are in the head high range and sometimes well overhead and firing, who gives a damn, right?  Saturday had to be by far the best surfing day of the summer.  Wave after wave after wave just kept pushing through.  I surfed that day down in Baja at a spot that usually doesn't have much of a crowd, but on this day, the crowd was there and about.  But everybody was pretty much stoked because the sets came in sixes and sometimes nines.  How did I know this?  Because I broke my rule and paddled into the first one a couple of times.  I counted eight on my head as I paddled back out.

Me going left.
Over the flat spell, I've been working really hard in the gym.  The Bearded Bandito gave me some good advice a couple months ago.  "We work our arms and upper body all the time in the water.  We just gotta worry about our core and legs."  Since I received that great advice, I've been working my core and legs really hard, adding in a lot of push-ups and pull-ups, using my own body weight with higher reps.  And It really has helped.  Two moves that I really think have made a difference is double and single leg wall squats.  Adding 40 to 50 pounds to each consecutive set (6 sets, holding 45-60 seconds) have really helped me set my legs nice and square on my board, setting my bottom turn for cutbacks and snaps.  Before, my legs would shake if I held them in a power position, but now, no problem.  Since I have started this core and leg regime, my bottom turn, turns of the top and going backside where you really have to hold your center of gravity have become much more manageable. 

'Ol Knappy pigdogging it!

But anyways, the surf was awesome and looking at the forecast, we're in for more swell.  Unbelievable how things work out.  From flat to firing.  Glad I stayed in shape.  Here are more pictures that my wife and I took of the past swell.  Til next time.  Or until the arms fall off.

Alex on a hum dinger.

The Bearded Bandito heading into the hot sun.
This dude was on a couple juicy ones.  I should have sat next to him.
This one pretty much lined up for me.
This is that "dude" again, ripping another juicy one.
He knows he's on a good one.
The stronger and more in shape my legs are, the more I enjoy going left.
'Ol Knappy on his last wave.  It was pretty good one too.
I'm trying to finish what I started. 

Some of my wife's artistic shots that she wanted me to post..


Spot give away...

And my wife wanted me to post this one just to make sure that there is proof that I'm still a kook...


All of the shots from the shore are credited to my wife. 

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Home Sick

Inspiration
I was quite inspired tonight to pen a new entry.  After work, I sat down for dinner with take-out from Phil's (The Rib-less Dinner), salad and a couple Grapefruit Sculpins that I scored at Ballast's Little Italy tasting room.  Our Apple TV screen saver came up on our TV and pictures from our past life in The Bay appeared.  In those pictures, our top half was layered with a shirt topped by a hoodie topped by a medium insulated jacket with warm hats.  We were wearing jeans, shoes and what not.  We had pictures in The City, at A's games, BBQing Oysters at Tomales Bay, pictures of the Bay Bridge, hanging out arm in arm at windy Crissy Field watching the sun drop below the Golden Gate Bridge.  And pictures of us blowing cold smoke as we exhaled hot air into that slightly cold, brisk morning in early January.  I guess no matter where you go, if you live in one place for over twenty years, you'll always have a longing for it.  It's life.  It's sounds.  It's smells.  It's culture.

One from my archive.
But life has a current, and rather then trying to swim against it, we decided to see where the river went.  SoCal isn't a bad place to end up on the other end.  It's not NorCal.  That's for sure.  We traded our shoes for sandals, our jackets for T-shirts and our jeans for shorts.  Everyday is pretty much sunny.  Having a pair of really good sunglasses is not a necessity, but it helps.  San Diego.  One of the old guys I surf with described it as "Never Land".  It's a place where you can stay young and never grow up.  And people do look young here, whether cosmetically altered, genetically lucky or just by healthy living.  It's a place where people work to live.  Sometimes work to play.  The Bay, in some ways, became a place where that notion was the other way around, for me at least.  Plus, I was living far away from ol' Pacific.  I needed to be closer.  I needed to drown in it to breath.  But I have plenty of family still in The Bay, and I'm lucky enough to visit once every few months.  But it's not the same.  I miss crossing the Bay Bridge once or twice a week.  I miss Bart.  I miss Muni.  I miss AC Transit.  I miss the cynicism.  Hipsters.  Na, not the Hipsters.  When I go back, places and neighborhoods change, even within the short time since I've been gone.  Neighborhoods have lost it's color, and I'm not talking about the buildings.  Even the names of neighborhoods keep changing.  My brother lives in "Twitterloin" for God sakes.  What the fuck is that???  There are more people from Ohio and Boston then from The Mission or Oakland.  But at least a few of my really good friends planted roots and fight to keep the true spirit of The Bay alive and well.  They know who they are.  Yeah, you Jack.  Yeah, you Rassan.  Yeah, you Amber.  Yeah, you Todd.  Yeah, you.  And you.


One thing I don't miss is the drive to Santa Cruz.  Thinking back when I would wake up at 3:30a and be on the road by 4a and getting yelled at a local by 5a, all the while being cold and half asleep.  Out here in San Diego, I live half way between my favorite break in Baja and that one place they call "Trestles".  Both approximately 45 miles either way.  Within five minutes, I have two of the best beach breaks in the County (Scripp's and Black's) and two reefs that I will leave unnamed, that break on any decent south that comes through.  Yeah, those early morning, half sleep, listening to Led Zepplin while driving with the heater full blast days are done. Well, at least for now.  Because "you never know".   



One thing that I really love about San Diego is the sunset.  There hasn't been one bad sunset yet.  And the secret to a great sunset that I learned is clouds.  Clouds make epic sunsets.  There are probably better sunsets elsewhere.  But elsewhere isn't "California".  And California is by far the best place to live on the planet.  And I've been to a lot of places.  I grew up in a beautiful place.  And California still is the best, by miles.  Above is a recent swell the Bearded Bandito and I caught a week ago.  We went to our favorite spot 45 miles south of our home, with only five guys out, we scored endless head high rights.  Yeah, it lulled for a bit later in the afternoon, and the wind kind of got on it towards the end, but from a guy who learned how to surf at San Francisco's Ocean Beach, I'd take those endless fun rights any day, no matter what condition.  Funny story:  The inside and outside peaks were going off.  I looked over to The Bearded Bandito and asked "Inside and Outside are firing, where you gonna sit".  With a slight grin, he replied,  "Pick your poison."



What I miss the most about NorCal in general is Pine Trees.  Their smell.  Their brown bark.  Their endless green, prickly needles.  I grew up between living in Hawaii and coming back to NorCal here and there.  And when ever we ended up living in NorCal for a year or two, my family would go up to Yosemite for a week in the summer and we'd camp at either lower or upper pines.  And looking at pictures of Yosemite brings up those feelings of youth, family, laughter, joy and the utter awe every time we'd make it down to it's Valley.  But my wife and I have been doing some exploring, and one thing SoCal has is a lot of deserts.  And so does Baja.  And we've been finding ways to enjoy the deserts, either camping or just cruising...


A Dusty Drive from Kookingitup on Vimeo.

Joshua Tree for one is a pretty awesome spectacle.  To it's creepy yet beautiful Yucca brevifolia, Jack Rabbits, foxes and the occasional rattle snake make this National Park an enchanting section of California. We caught it during the recent super moon.  The way the moon light hit the boulders at midnight was a sight to be seen.  During one of the nights, I sat outside on a beach chair and watched all the constellations shift.  It's like you can see the entire universe and beyond down that way.  It seems like a good place to trip out at, if you know what I mean. 




I took my niece to Lego Land's water park the other day.  Out of all the slides they had there, she chose to get on a raft and float down the "Lazy River".  She got a lot of shit from her friends for it, making fun of her for not riding the "grown kid" slides with them and opting just to cruise with her favorite uncle down that man made, chlorine filled river.  I asked her after a while why she liked the Lazy River so much.  She replied "because you never know where it's going to take you."  "Yeah, you never know," I replied to her as we floated down that lazy river. 

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Comic-Con... My first blog that has nothing to do with surfing.


It's summer and as expected, waves are hard to come by.  Instead of punishing myself by checking the forecast and living for the moments that will happen (supposedly) in two weeks when swell comes my way, I decided to skip summer surf all together and just enjoy the present.  I check the buoys every morning, and if there is surf, I surf.  If there isn't, I work out.  I gave up watching forecast models until September.  Besides, if a swell is coming, I'll get a text from one of my buddies.  So instead of surfing, I've invested some more time at work by providing some really great trainings and presentations, going to Padre games, keeping fit by doing a 50/50 regime of P90X and Cross fit, and last week, attending Comic-Con.

Adding protien to my diet at The Walking Dead booth.
Mind you, this is my first Comic Con.  Last year while the 2013 Comic Con was going down, I was moving our stuff down from The Bay.  Luckily enough, my wife had a couple of friends who helped us score the coveted "4 - Day Pass".   And dang, was it worth it.  Simply, Comic-Con is sensory overload. It's like Las Vegas, but minus the gambling, boo's and hookers.  It's a Las Vegas for all of us grown-ups that never grew up.


Comic-Con is a collectors paradise.  A couple buddies of mine from The Bay were down for the convention.  These fellas are hardcore collectors.  They want every "exclusive" toy they can get their hands on.  To buy any exclusive, you have to wait in line for a "ticket".  Which means you have to sleep all night in a line or get there at 3am to have a chance.  But if you scored (according to my buddies, one of the most coveted items this year was Hasbro's "Magic Planeswalker with Garruk's Axe", or something like that), that item could sell on Ebay and pay your way through Comic-Con.  I got sucked into the whole "Exclusive" thing and bought a couple Starwars pieces that are worth a pretty nickle now.  But I'm going to keep them.  A friend of mine scored a free Batman Lego piece that was given away by Lego.  The catch to get that Lego piece was that you had to wait in line for at least three hours.  That little, itsy, bitsy toy is now going for over $200 on Ebay.  Sounds like a hard way to make a living.  But It's not all about that.  It's all about the hunt.  And scoring.

Hall H, Christopher Nolan and Matthew McConaughey talking about next years film "Interstellar".

Besides the "Exhibition Room" where all the toys, costumes, booths and comics are, there are also these really cool "panels".  They are held in ballrooms, like any other convention.  The ballroom to be in was "Hall H".  This is where all the cool previews of the new movies coming out in the future were shown.  Besides movies, popular T.V. shows were previewed in this hall as well.  My wife and I were able to score a seat (the wait to get into Hall H can be 1 hour to overnight) in Hall H and saw a couple cool previews.


Kevin Smith.  His interview on the "W.T.F. Podcast" with Marc Maron is still, by far, one of the best podcasts I ever heard. 
What was really cool about Hall H was the sound system.  The sound system was epic.  It was loud, but not deafening loud, but it was loud enough to rumble your pants during explosions on the screen.  And if your lucky, they hand you a ticket while the presentation is happening, which scores you what the Comic-Con-ians call "Swag".  All that means is you'll get a cool promotional item like a poster, t-shirt, button or backpack that you pick up at the "Fulfillment Room" which is located a couple hotels north of the Convention Center.  My wife went to the ballroom for "True Blood" (she's a hardcore fan) and scored some really cool "Swag".  She wears her True Blood swag to bed now. 


But the coolest thing about Comic Con is the people attending it.  I never been part of an event with so many people who all share such a high level of stoke.  All I saw were wide eye'd smiling people.  And for a crowd so large (150,000+), there were no fights at all (that I seen).  And the costumes were awesome.  There was this costume of Optimus Prime that was soooo sick!  And the costume next to him was Megatron in the sickest Megatron costume ever! And to add to that, it was nighttime, and they both had neon lights, blazing there costumes as they walked through the crowd.  I read a few articles about ladies in costumes getting harassed, which sucks.  But all I witnessed were guys asking ladies in costumes, in a really polite manner, to take pictures with them.  Like I did below. 

One for my Pop's who is a huge Trekky.
The only disappointment I had was not getting into the Barbecue for "The Walking Dead".  To get into The Walking Dead BBQ, I had to first find the "Terminus" map, and then take a seflie with it and tweet that picture with the hashtag "#tweettoeat".  Then I had to wait in line before 9am to get a wrist band.  Well, to get a wrist band, you had to get to the line at around 7am and wait two hours.  Sway and I got there at 8:30am.  No chance.  But we almost made it, we were about 15 people off.  Maybe next year.

Darkside Swag

All in all, Comic-Con was all that it lived up to be and more.  Super fun!!!  My wife and I are already planning on taking off work for a few days for next years event.  We're so stoked that it happens in San Diego.  All we have to do is jump on the lightrail, and bam!  We're at the doorsteps of the convention center in downtown.  Hopefully we'll score another 4-Day Pass and join the stoked out crowd of movie buffs, collectors, costume lovers, celeb's,  and zombies. 


Monday, July 21, 2014

My Favorite heat from the J-Bay 2014


Occy vs. Curren. Can it get any better? I love Curren's style. Natural flash born out of an introverted personality, that is highly efficient.  And that 10 point ride!?  I watched that ride about a hundred times already.  He rode that wave so effortlesy.  And to think, he almost got hung up on his first turn.

I love Occy too, especially the current Occy. My body type is very similar to Occy's. It's great to see the bigger guy charge, especially that day at Jeffery's Bay.  I loved Occy's last wave.  He virtually said "fuck it" to the competition and he just rode the right handed wall as far as it could take him.  The announcers were like "WTF?".  LOL!  Anyways, one of the pleasantry's of the ASP tour this year is  Occy's commentating.  So insightful and he is pleasantly articulate.  He proves that even bull headed surfers can be intelligent as well.

Curren's band is opening for Donovan Frankerieter this weekend at a local Casino.  Bought tickets just because of this heat.  Gotta at least be in the same room as Curren once in my life.

Oh, I love this clip of Curren's first wave ever at J-Bay.  This was a clip captured by the late Sonny Miller.

Thursday, July 10, 2014

Confidence Fleeting



One Minute from Kookingitup on Vimeo.

Over the last week, there was a very good run of swell.  Depending on where you surfed it, you either were getting caught inside by some bulldozers or you were surfing some pretty fun waves.  It didn't hit San Diego particularly well as it was a very steep swell with not a lot of west in it.  I surfed spots across the border and south facing beaches more north and got some really good waves. In my opinion, Sunday was my best day of surfing during this swell.  I surfed my regular spot across the border for a bit until leaving for something a bit uncrowded.  And while I was driving north across the bend on the "Libre", I saw a peak just exploding over these ram shackle houses that are on the edge of the cliffs.  I made a quick u-turn and found this lonely point just going off with only five guys on it.


There were about 4 other guys on the cliff, contemplating whether or not it was worth it.  The paddle out looked pretty sketch, and an exit strategy looked like a mile paddle to the safest beach.  I asked the boy's on the cliff if they were going.  After a minute of talking ourselves into it, one guy just looked at me and said "Fuck it".  He started walking and three of his buddies, including me, followed.  Lucky enough, I made it out pretty clean.  But damn, this swell was pumping some dragons.  It was a damn great sesh of paddeling around beasts and going for broke on a few waves.  But I have to say, I did it, with some grace.  When I surfed the next day back home at a local reef, I told some of the older guys where I surfed the day before.  And they scolded me for it.   One guy said, "Dude, you can't take chances like that when you have responsibilities, that's for youngsters."  Another guy told me how he almost tore out his entire eye brow after hitting a rock at that spot.  I guess I got lucky, for the swell and tides were was just right (I guess), as I came out pretty unscathed with a lot of good memories.  But over and over again, the same phrase was used by everybody about that spot:  "The damn rocks."


Over the next few days I surfed a local reef with the same crew of guys.  It wasn't a perfect swell for this spot, but it was good enough.  But even though I had a really great sesh at that "damn rocks" spot, I was struggling a lot with my confidence.  My pop up hasn't been particularly well lately.  I ate it a bunch of times the day before.  I figured that the jump from two feet surf to 5 foot + had a lot to do with it, but I'm starting to think otherwise.  It probably has to do a lot with my weight, as I've been hovering around five pounds over my surfing weight, which makes a big difference on some of my boards.  But instead of trying to starve myself, and lose five pounds in one day, which wasn't going to happen (cuz I love my grinds), I tried something else.  Over the last few days of the swell, I just made it a habit to just tell myself as I was paddling into a wave this small mantra "Relax, don't over think it."  I know myself pretty well, and I know that when I am doing things with a flow of thought and instinct, rather then just thought, the end result comes out pretty well.  So I changed my mantra to "It's cool, just pop up".  And that seemed to work for a bit. 

 
But then there is Trestles.  And with summer, Trestles equals... too many groms. The Bearded Bandito and I decided to catch the tail end of the swell at Uppers.  And it was a great choice.  It was pumping.  Big walls were just coming one after another.  And if you surf Uppers any, big south swells just close out that spot at times.  But the medium sized ones are the ones to go for.  And all the groms knew that.  One grom after another was just flying out of the white water as I was trying to drop in, making me pull out just before I was about to pop up.  And when they weren't flying out of nowhere, they were just dropping in.  To say the least, it got pretty frustrating.  And damaging to my confidence because of two things:  (1) Kids younger then half my age were schooling me and (2) They really made me feel old.


So now I'm three steps back to where I was a few days ago.  Confidence feels like it is fleeting and there are no waves until the end of next week.  Generally when I'm feeling down about myself, I tend to not wallow in it too long.  I find out what's bothering me and do something about it.  So here is the first step, processing and identifying it, and the next step is looking for the best method to heal and improve and then put that plan of action into motion.  But today, The Bearded Bandito and I had a conversation about this "confidence" thing (he was feeling the same way after our Uppers session).  We both felt as if we lost something and left it there on that beach in front of Uppers.  And maybe that is what we were suppose to do to evolve as surfers, and become better men.  And whatever is going to fill what we left, is going to make us that much better, because maybe, just maybe, that part of our confidence, that part of ourselves that was left behind, was holding us back.  And just maybe when the next swell comes, we won't be held back. That new part that fills that void, will give us the push we need to lose something else... 

Or maybe we'll just get schooled by groms again.  Who the fuck knows. 

Saturday, July 5, 2014

The Whatever Sessions



The Whatever Sessions from Kookingitup on Vimeo.

Lately, I've been looking into new hobbies.  Knitting, gardening, fencing, maybe dabbing into learning a new language, cooking...  Whatever to get my mind off surfing and the endless knee high waves and south winds that blow out anything that is good or ride able.  For whatever reason, the S.P.A.C. has not let loose, not once.  Well, let me take that back, it did a couple times but during spring when winds from all directions destroyed any hope or stoke that I had.  And when there are waves and the weather cooperates, this is what happens:


I'm not really one to complain about crowds.  Shit, I cut my teeth in one of the most crowded reefs in Santa Cruz.  But the older I get, the less I can hang with all the young kids and groms.  Especially down here in SoCal.  Everybody can surf pretty well, and when your in a crowd fighting for three waves sets that come every ten minutes, you have to be on your "A" game.  But it's difficult when your surfing a spot and at the head of the pack is Kolohe Andino and on the inside, besides all the groms, is Pat Gudauskas (someone could win a spelling bee trying to spell that last name!).  It's probably my fault for picking crowded spots to surf, but I'm not one to dwell on if there are crowds or not, I just want to surf good waves.


That's me above surfing at my local break.  I'm pretty hesitant on calling any break my "home break" cuz I don't feel as if I'm ever going to be a local ("What high school did you go to?").  I pretty much wonder to where the buoys tell me too, so I don't frequent the same spots.  But I do have my "local" breaks which are near where I live.  Shores, Scripp's and Black's are practically on my doorstep, so yeah, those spots are pretty much local.  And out of all three, Black's can pretty much go "loco" at times if you know what I'm saying.


That's me on in the picture above again, giving ya'll an example of what it's been like.  Yeah, we get the intermittent chest high wave now and then, but pretty much, it has been ankle to knee high crap.  Whatever waves.  It's been pretty much exercising as of late, and I don't take these sessions too seriously.  Why?  Cuz for one thing, I surf like crap in small waves, and when I do, my confidence in my surfing falls off tremendously.  It's hard to surf well in small surf, especially since I'm a pretty big guy.  I need more "umph" to set up my turns.  One thing that I have been doing lately is wearing a hat during afternoon sessions.  That my friends, has saved my face from burning like a crisp.  I don't know why I didn't start wearing a hat before, but I never paddle out without it after 12p.


I know I'm ranting and complaining a lot in this post.  And I know I haven't posted in awhile either.  I just haven't had anything worthy to write about.  But to be honest, we have had a few good days of surf.  The last couple of days of June were pretty good at my local breaks.  For some odd reason, we had a late WNW swell that made Black's look like a pretty fun winter day.  I had a blast that day, catching some overhead plus waves.  It was good enough to bust my leash.  And after my leash busted, I decided to stay on the outside and body surf, which was a great call. And besides having the size, the waves were nice and peaky, just the way I like them.  We also had a couple of windswells that provided some fun rides at the Pier.  Really fun waves that again, provided those lovely beach break peaks.


This is all first world problems.  People in Iraq would be laughing at my bullshit complaints right now.  But even when there are no waves, I still have this beach to go to.  My wife and I spend most of our sunsets parked on a hill watching sunsets like the one above.  We sit in my car like two teenage love struck kids, holding hands, smelling that sweet sea breeze and watch one magnificent sunset after another.  There isn't much that I can share with my wife about surfing because she doesn't swim and doesn't surf.  But sunsets at the beach is something we can always share, because if your in the lineup watching this or from a hill, the feeling is always the same.