Swayze's cousin, 'Ol Oscar is an old school Tijuana surfer. Tijuana kats, I think, get a bad rap. Tijuana as a whole gets a well deserved bad rap with it's history of just things that are all bad. But the people of Tijuana, or "Tijuas" as they like to be called are just like any other city hustling folk. They can speak just as fast as any born and raised New Yorker, but instead of being pale and grumpy, a Tijuas' brown skin shines like bronze. Tijuana is a very close knit community, and it's citizens have learned how to endure and smile at the same time in a town where both are hard to come by. I have come to love "T.J." just as much as I do San Diego. For one thing, the Tacos are bomb and if you want to eat at the best Brazilian Steak House in the region, you gotta hit up T.J. From eating great food and hanging at high brow bars with great bands in "La Sexta" to getting my sway on at a bud's home on top of the hill, Tijuana is full of color, passion and pride.
'Ol Oscar surfed all up and down Baja Norte, but always re-lives his memories of surfing Baja Malibu where off shores create the sweetest barrels this side south of Blacks. "Gringos come over and think they can have every wave, but locals rule. If you get snaked esay, just yell 'Pinche Gavitoa' and keep riding that wave like a bull". Best advice ever.
For the third year and a row, the Kiwi Hippie Summer get together went down. And a lot of "Pinche Gaviota" was yelled. The few years prior, we celebrated lavishly at the San Mateo Campgrounds and San Onofre State Beach Campgrounds. This time around, we headed way down south, and went all out, "$100 dollars each" all out and got a two story home that fit all eleven of us at Las Gaviotas, which is about 45 minutes south of the San Ysidro Boarder. We had waves for days on this trip. A semi large long period swell, mixed in with waves from Hurricane Nobert flushed ride able walls and we took full advantage. The wind kicked up in the afternoons but on one of those days, we caught it flush and spitting, 6-8 foot fast waves and fast times. Clean up sets came through every 10 minutes to keep people honest, but taking it on the head was worth that perfect, mid peak wave that curled up hollow on the inside for that little green that gave a high, but without the choking cough. It's always great catching up with the boys. And the trouble we get into will always live legend. Damn Pinche Gaviotans.
And for how it all went down....
|Manav getting it going with a Huntington Hop.|
|'Ol Red doing this thing.|
|She photo bombed us, so we had to photo bomb her.|
|"Ride'm like a bull" -'Ol Oscar|
|It was kind of like SFOB out there. Not matter how far you paddled out, you were going to get cleaned up.|
|This guy had a wave all to himself. Smart guy.|
|But that sunset.|
|Thanks for snapping this Swayze!!!|