I paddled out to one of my local reefs on Thursday evening. It's quite a paddle when it's low tide and a large amount of swell. Choppy, some current, but nothing serious, the waves were breaking on the semi outer reef, and I just paddle around the oncoming wash. My shoulders were aching from all the surfing over the last week and a half (I know, boo hoo, self loathing... guilty). I slightly tweeked my neck, God knows how the day before but my lower back felt fine and my entire being just wanted to be in the middle of all that liquid thumping that was happening on the outside. I paddled closer to the peak and saw this goofy footed fella catching a left. He was looking straight ahead on what had to be a 8ft+ dredger. It began to barrel over his head for a second or two. The noise the wave created was loud. The loudness it created was a deep, echoing sound. The kind of sound that reverberates down your spine. The fella didn't even know he was getting barreled in a crouching tube. "Did I get tubed?" he asked me a few minutes later in the lineup. "Sure looked like it." I replied. He smiled. "Dear Marie," was his reply.
|Joel Tudor on a quick exit.|
Marie for all of her hype, in my opinion, and at least in San Diego, wasn't as good as the Tropical Storm "Lowell" swell. The water was super murky, the wind turned up earlier in the morning and lasted til sunset, and the waves were less consistent (even though it was pretty consistent, and that's saying something about Lowell), and the waves didn't have the power that Lowell blessed us with. Lowell was like a mid period swell with the "umph" of a long period swell. I didn't travel north during the peak of Marie (why travel when waves are going off in the backyard right?) but I saw pictures and video of NewPort Point, and that stuff looked major. I guess the swell was so steep, that San Diego probably got the edge of that red blob while Newport got the full grunt. It's not that I'm complaining, I had a lot of great waves, green room time and almost a near drowning by way of my rashgaurd being pulled over my head. Marie lived up to the hype, but I still think Lowell was the better swell, at least in my "hood".
|One way to make the drop.|
|I sat on a bench on the hill for an hour and saw this guy make two saves on Thursday.|
|Tudor using his "Mr. San Diego" pass.|
|Thursday. Again, Tudor finding another tube.|
|Marine Street looked fun. Check that kid running into the surf just behind the skim boarder. Pure stoke.|
|There were a lot of semi guns in the lineup. I didn't think they were needed.|
|This guy had a lot of green room time.|
|Full on, inside the womb time.|
|Sucks when your boss can out surf you. At least on this wave.|