It's been a minute, hasn't it? I haven't posted in quite a while. I hope you all are doing well, getting spitted out of barrels and yelling "Gnarly!" when you see a friend take a big wipeout. As for me? Well, I'm still surfing. I'm still here in S.D., still enjoying that SoCal sun, heading back north occasionally, and trying to stay out of the mischief of life. This year has had it's ups and downs both in the surfing realm, life and from a political standpoint. But as long as we are still breathing in oxygen, seeing blue sky over a blue ocean, saying hello to new and old friends, laughing and holding the ones we love close... I'd say were are good.
One really cool joy that came out of 2016 is my wife and I are expecting our first child! We both are so stoked about it! And in no other time in my life would I have ever thought I would say this: I am more than ready to become a father. One thing is certain, I may not be a kook at surfing anymore, but I sure will be a kook at being a dad! Let the "learning moments" begin once again! (As if they don't occur everyday ;)
As for 2016, as I always do, here are the spots I surfed:
Scripp's (Home Break): 35
S. Bird (Summer Break): 13
Sewer Lines: 10
Cardiff: 4 (surfed with Gerry Lopez one of those days)
San Miguel: 4
Marine Street: 4 (Summer body surfing)
N. Garbage: 2
San Francisco Ocean Beach
Total sessions: 121
This is down from what I surfed in 2015 (178 sessions). Honestly, I have been more picky when it comes to sessions. I only really surf when it's at least chest high. If I'm not seeing it on the buoys, I do something else (like work. LOL).
Here are the boards I used:
M-10: 15 times
Webber: 34 times
Sunset: 16 times
JS: 43 times
Vader: 1 time
Here were the days I was out due to illness or injury:
Lower Back: 14 days
Influenza: 3 days
Sinus infections: 9 days
December and January were really bad months for surf. Here in San Diego, it has been either flat or pouring down rain. Pretty miserable winter so far, besides November. But November doesn't count, because that was fall...
Recently, me and a couple friends took a trip out to Mexico and had a great time. We surfed San Mig's on a pretty damn good day:
|My homey Serg caught the best wave of the trip with this one. Such a nugget!|
|Napo, throwing down the man turn at his homebreak.|
|Good times are coming...|
|Green Room time.|
I hope all of you had a great 2016! Here is to an awesome 2017. Drop a line below and let me know how goes in the comments section.