Thursday, September 3, 2015

Warm Water

Warm water and fair weather has been making it feel like Hawaii out here over the last few weeks.  Now all we need are some Hawaiian sized waves!

Tuesday, September 1, 2015


My homey Danny shared this as a post.  I thought it was pretty sick & a bit hilarious.  But as a good friend, I would like to share it with you too.

Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Never to Late

This is my favorite GoPro barrel ever by C.J. Hobgood in Fiji.  A little late, as it was a post from GoPro a few months ago.  I just want to make sure I can find it so I can watch it over and over again. 


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O.G. Eric sometime this year.  I think that's Gustavo paddling over, scoping with some wave envy.  Sorry it took a while to post it.  I had to search the archive for it. 

Saturday, August 22, 2015

The Darth Vader

"The Darth Vader"

Lately, I have been feeling like I need to add some spice to my surf life.  I'm pretty much a consummate standard, thruster, short boarder who has a variety of boards that are virtually the same but of different sizes and thickness.  I have my quiver locked in to whatever condition Mother Ocean happens to dish out.  But over the last few months I have been looking for something different, a particular board that goes in between the long, and the short.  A board that will ride different, but not too different.  And ever since I started playing on a Wave Storm, I've been wanting a real wide nosed board that I can walk the plank with.  

And this is what I found.  The Darth Vader, 6'3 x 20ish", somewhat thick, but not too thick, and pretty darn light for how much glass and foam it was born with.  My buddy Steve in The Bay put me on to this shape.  He inspired me to think different and be more open minded about what I ride.  Steve surfed the heck out of a board just like this during some pretty heavy days while we were out at the Cliffs few years back.

I really wanted to practice what I preach and stay local on everything "surf" that I purchase.  This board is was shaped in San Diego and by a San Diegen. I also plan to ride this single finned, so I found this really beautiful fin shaped by Skip Frye.  

If your a married surfer, then you know how much compromise you have to lay down for your spouse to allow you to buy a new board.  And dude, I gave up a lot of dignity for this board.  Compromise, compromise, give in.  That is the life of a married surfer ;)

I really don't buy new boards unless I have them shaped for my standards now days.  But I found this board used and for a pretty incredible price at the Bird Rock Surf Shop.  Pretty stoked on it. I'm looking forward to creating some good memories with the "Darth Vader".

Saturday, August 8, 2015

Far From You

Blessed to live by the Sea. But When I lived 45 minutes away, I appreciated it way more.  I never take it for granted though.