Getting use to looking at forecasts and buoy readings of 8.2 @ 20's can be a very frightning thing to a proletariat surfer like I. What this means is that the set waves will probably hit the reefs at around 10ft-14ft+ feet during sets, with a lot of underlying power built up from the bottom of the shelf on up. In addition to that, waves running at 20+ second intervals will be long in length, closing out most channels, anywhere you surf. In a nutshell, all that means is there is no escape for the ultimate ride. I'm use to seeing buoy readings never going above 5 or 6 feet when it comes to 20 second intervals. I once paddled out at the cliffs when it was 6 feet at 22 seconds a couple winters ago, and I got my clock rung one to many times. But what is a surfer to do when every dang swell is running between 6-8 ft at around 17-20 seconds every other day? I don't have a universal answer for that, nor will I try. But personally, for my own sanity and need to surf, is to just get fucking use to it.
This wave was taken at a swell that was around 4ft @ 20's. That's my comfort zone swell. Waves are nice and powerful at 5-8 ft. but not going to break your board or your back. El Niño on the other hand dishes double that on a consistent basis. I kind of knew it was coming with such a slow November while watching the ocean's movement, but when December stalled a bit, I was in doubt. But after the torrential downfall that occurred here in SoCal during first week of January, it's either been 10+ or 5-8ft+ with no real in between. Today was probably the smallest it has been, 3-4 feet at Home Depot, tomorrow more of the same, but on Thursday, it starts up again and the weekend looks like another big one.
I've made it evident that I, by no means, am a big wave chaser. But I will put myself out there once in a while to see where I am at. But since there has been really no choice but to surf when it's been big, I've went out there with all I have, and tested my mettle. And I have surprised myself. The more I went out when my mind and body have said no, the more I have been able to get use to the relentlessness of El Niño and her savage waves.
Lots of guys love this stuff. Big waves, big wipe outs. I just want to have fun. And recently, instead of being on high alert, I have been more in tuned with finding the right spot in the lineup and taking the punishment that comes with that. I heard this big wave surfer's interview about wiping out, and he said what gets him through it is a quote from Laird Hamilton saying "You just have to enjoy the second ride". Which makes a lot of sense. I took a brutal wipe out on one of the bigger waves I've ever taken off on, and while I was getting mowed over by that wave and consecutive set waves, I just tried to enjoyed it and kept telling myself to practice 1. having fun and 2. staying calm. I figure if guys are getting battered by the unruly Waimea Bay in Hawaii, then maybe, just maybe I can survive a couple 10ft+ tumbles.
But lets be honest. This has been one of the most epic January's in my tenure of surfing (5 years now in April). Most of you would agree that we have all probably caught some of the most memorable waves in recent memory, along with a lot of unmemorable and traumatic wipe outs. And to see how much the angles mean in swells that are so powerful has been awesome and interesting. I have been going back to keeping logs on directions, swell feet and periods, but keeping precise notes on which end of a reef or a point a waves breaks on that specific swell. These swells have been so pure, mostly just one big swell, with little to no mixture. But yes, we did have that small south swell the other week which got over runned by the last big North Swell. People said it was out there, but I didn't see it at all.
It's great to know your skill level and not paddle out if you feel that it's not up to what is being put out by El Niño. But at the same time, it's good to test yourself and to see how far you have come. If it's too big, drive north (from a San Diego winter perspective). There is always something that will be at the level where you are at. But sometimes don't. Just make sure you have a good leash, lots of board, trained hard enough prior to give you the confidence and test your mettle. Good things can happen. And you might, just might leave with a big smile and boost of self assurance that yes, you can do it.
(Disclaimer: know your ability, only paddle out when you have the ability and physical endurance to take a beating. You should probably consult with your doctor too. No doubt!)
