Sunday, July 29, 2012

Pastrami & Jeff Clark

After my extended leave from surfing, I've been working my way back slowly but surely.  My first day back, I tried my luck at the Groin in Bolinas but at the wrong tide.  Even though, it gave me a chance to work myself back into shape.  Plus I got a chance to stop by the Bolinas market and get some good 'ol American food as in the pastrami sandwich!  Oh, how I missed you pastrami! But I don't know if pastrami's gonna help me get back into shape...

Everybody uses the backdoor at Bolinas.

My second time out, I hit up Linda Mar with my nephew.  It's his second time out, but he's for sure a natural.  He can already paddle into waves, stand up and surf down the line.  Being the crazy kid that he is, he got bored with Linda Mar and wanted to go to Ocean Beach.  He paddled out with me and a couple of the Kiwi Hippies and held his own.  Just don't tell his mom that I took him to Miss O.B.  His mom will give me a harder beating then a paddle out at Ocean Beach on a "12ft @ 8 seconds" day.  

My nephew, the next Slater.  He just needs a smaller board.
For my third session since getting back, I headed out with Manav and Ton-Gee to Rockaway.  We were split on whether to surf Ocean Beach, The Jetty or Montara.  Since we were all short on time and O.B. was being her O.B. self that morning, we headed to our next closest favorite break and it was firing and uncrowded.  I don't know where the waves were coming from because the Buoys were saying the opposite.  But for a good two hours, the waves were chest high.  In some sets it was even in the head to one foot over head range.  The right at the Rock was working great and I even got crowned on one wave. Can't ask for anything more in the summer!

Bone Yard

Today, I took my nephew out to the Mavericks.  We sat on the beach just before Bone Yard and I told him the history of this historic break. I told him about the legends who left their lives here and how this break only goes off during the winter months when the north swells howl.  We talked about Jeff Clark and how he paddled out alone for 15 years to surf one of the biggest, most gnarliest and deadliest waves in the world.  My nephew was mesmerized by Jeff's story and how brave Jeff must have been back in those days.

My nephew wanted to stop by Jeff's shop to check out some of his pictures.  As we walked in, Jeff was standing at the front door.  Jeff was very gracious and I told him how ironic this moment was as I was just telling my nephew about his legend.  

Phillyman (my nephew) and Jeff Clark
My nephew was stoked to have met Jeff and so was I.  Jeff told my nephew that the reason why he paddled out alone for 15 years was because no one else would paddle out with him.  He also wished my nephew good luck with his surfing journey.  Outstanding fella! 

Here is video I shot during the last Maverick's competition back in 2012:

As I try to get back into surf shape, I'm pretty stoked that my nephew is stoked about surfing.  He's a great kid and he's gonna be a great surfer!  I hope in the future we'll be taking surf trips to far off lands and taking down barrels during dawn patrols when the whole world is still dreaming.  One day for sure....  One day.

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Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Sometimes Linda Puts On Her Best Dress

I cruised up to Linda Mar on a desperate plea and to my f'king surprise, good ol' Linda put on her makeup today.  The waves weren't perfect by no stretch of the imagination, but they were coming in fast, thick and hard (no pun intended).

I found myself out in front of Taco Bell, getting tackled by huge sets of sweetness.  I was catching some and in most circumstances, taking it on the dome (but with love).  After having a week full of watching what appeared to be the great lakes at Pacifica and at Ocean Beach, Linda put on her best Muu'muu and gave me a show that I have been ever thankfully waiting for.

After a few thrashings in front of the home of the Chalupa, I headed to the docks where I was all alone in front of the second house, catching some short but tasty rights.  Within 45 minutes, the word got out and I was surrounded by 5 other tribe's men.  I then paddled over to the docks and joined some of the good 'ol longboard boys at the docks.  I wasn't into trying to compete with the good 'ol boys (I had my 6'6 Webber on hand.  I consider this my longboard), but I didn't have too because some pretty fun, thick sets came in and everybody scored.  I caught a beautiful left, and did three or four backside turns off the top (that I'm very proud of might I say).  The wall on this wave was soooo glassy.  Never thought ol' Linda had it in her.

After the session, I headed back to the parking lot and chatted it up with the boys.  Everybody was pretty stoked to have scored.  The theme of the the day was "Monday became fun day!".  One of the fellas had this sweet tattoo. Reminded me of that Red Hot Chili Peppers song with the lyrics "Throw away your television!"

When I got back to The City, I commemorated this stoked out session with my favorite dish: Kung Pow Pastrami, a side of rice and a Mexican Coke at Mission Chinese.  As I was driving home, this song came on my ipod and it made me think of Linda and how she comes and goes...

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Surf's Up In Oakland!

Lake Linda Mar
I didn't even bother checking the surf this morning.  I was bitterly tired of being disappointed.  Me and Mr. Furry tried surfing OB on Friday. Instead of catching mush, we almost got sea sick from all of that hellish wind swell.  So instead, I slept in, watched a little of the Euro Cup (the match was pretty much over 20 minutes into it) and had this weird craving for a pork Vietnamese sandwich.  As I was driving to Oakland's China Town, I noticed the word "Surf Club" above a store front just off of 14th and Webster.  I took a closer look and I saw surf boards in view from the street.  Low and behold, Oakland has a surf shop!

The "Oakland Surf Club" is located at 337 14th street in Downtown Oakland (near 14th and Webster).  Owners Max and Ari have a pretty rad shop full of unique surf apparel, shoes, records, surf boards, awesome skateboards, art and Sticky Bumps  (I'm a Sex Wax guy, but sticky bumps are cool).  Today was their soft opening (I think) and I was lucky enough to stumble upon it.

Owners Max and Ari
Max and Ari are pretty cool kats.  They even offered me some cupcakes!   

Inside the "Club"

The East Bay has some pretty fierce surfers if you haven't met one yet.  They are people who no matter what the circumstances are, will drive anywhere the surf is pumping and charge the biggest waves without no hesitation.  It's great that there is finally a shop that East Bay folks can turn to rather then driving all the way to the outer sunset to look for gear or bullshit about surf.  I hope this spot becomes the mecca for the East Bay surfer, we need one!

Surfboards in Oakland!  Radical! 
I look forward to this new shop and the promise it brings to the East Bay.  Check out their website (below), they have plenty events including a gathering at their shop every first Friday from 6p-9p (same day as Oakland's Art Murmur which is a pretty happening thing now days).

 I'm glad that a surfer stepped up and looked at Oakland and said to himself "Even if I have to move mountains, Surf shall come to Oaktown!"  That's what I'm saying!  Yes!
Check Oakland Surf Club out @

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Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!