Sunday, June 17, 2012

Ocean Beast

'Locals view' of Ocean Beach @ Surfline

Ahhh…  Ocean Beach, the place where I almost lost my virginity.  So sad.  When I was a teen, we used to come here after parties or going out to the clubs and make a huge bonfire, hug up to our then crush and spend all night watching the full moon and listening to the waves crash along the sandy shore.
As for surfing, I have always viewed Ocean Beach as a wave for kamikazes.   I’ve surfed there a handful of times and I have almost drowned there a handful of times.  I remember one session where I was catching overhead and a half waves, getting barreled and actually beating some barrels.  I got all cocky.  Ocean Beach (or as us Bay Area folks call it “O.B.”) has a way of humbling one’s self.  Out of nowhere, a mega rouge wave came thundering right at me.  I was so inside that I had no chance.  I must have been under water for  minute.  I thought I was done.  I’m not afraid to say it.  I’m scared of that damn beach.
Above is a great show and tell of Ocean Beach by a couple local surfers that have surfed Ocean Beach for years.  I thought it was pretty cool and worth sharing.

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