This is an interview of the late Sion Milosky. He
tragically past away at Mavericks back in March of this year. Rest In
Peace Bro.
The reason why I am posting this is because I learned more from this interview then any conversation I’ve had with other surfers since I started 4 months ago. I really just enjoy his enthusiasm and his constant focus and stoke about his path. It also speaks to the questions I’ve had about which “lines” I should take on a wave, how I have to compromise that line with what my board wants to do and so on. It also speaks to how a board becomes part of you and the fondness that is created between it and it’s rider. It’s such a great interview for a novice like I who has a million questions but no one to answer them. It also makes me feel reassured that my feelings are shared with the greater surfing community. I also found that I can pretty much understand “surfing language” and wasn’t lost at all. This is a plus. If I heard this back in February, I would have been lost.
The reason why I am posting this is because I learned more from this interview then any conversation I’ve had with other surfers since I started 4 months ago. I really just enjoy his enthusiasm and his constant focus and stoke about his path. It also speaks to the questions I’ve had about which “lines” I should take on a wave, how I have to compromise that line with what my board wants to do and so on. It also speaks to how a board becomes part of you and the fondness that is created between it and it’s rider. It’s such a great interview for a novice like I who has a million questions but no one to answer them. It also makes me feel reassured that my feelings are shared with the greater surfing community. I also found that I can pretty much understand “surfing language” and wasn’t lost at all. This is a plus. If I heard this back in February, I would have been lost.
No comments:
Post a Comment