Small Bits

I love dawn patrols.  Waking up early, driving alone on an empty, dark highway, listening to the WTF Podcast while sipping on some warm brew.  My favorite early morning drive is making my way up on the 17 on a cold morning, heater half way up.  I remember last year and the sheer nervousness before a big swell, wondering in the darkness if I'm up to it or not.  I guess I just love the alone time. I'm in the "helping others" industry, and I take on a lot of other people's burden, so alone time is always a blessing.

Over the last few weeks, the surf has been pretty small.  The tides haven't helped either.  The tides have either been too high for any type of small swell to show it self or too drained for the sand bars to do their business.  I've really tried to be positive during the last week and a half  around the smallness, trying to figure out a way to learn at least something new and gain some type of wisdom from it.

One of the the things I have been working on in the drained out afternoons is trying to catch waves early and leaning into closeouts.  Linda Mar and Montara have plenty of them when it's drained.  I know it sounds hilarious, but I've been trying to practice tucking into mini closeouts, getting really close to the small walls, grabbing rail and tucking in.  I'm hoping this will be good practice when the walls get steep and hopefully it will help me get used to holding my own in a real barrel.  I've also been working on keeping my eyes open in close outs, getting my body fully shacked and keeping my footing for as long as possible.  Please don't snicker, I know it sounds funny, but I have to work on something of use...

When I was younger and living near a beach break called "Magic Sands" on the Big Island, that's all we used to do on our boogie boards.  We would catch a wave, pop up and stand on our boogies and get clobbered by 4 foot (Hawaiian sized), closed out beach break.  We would get pounded to oblivion, but we would come out, my brother and I , give eachother a hi-five and paddle back out for more.  So I guess getting clobbered by shitty beach break isn't new to me, it's just now I'm on a surf board. 

Panama Red and I surfed a spot just north of Santa Cruz.  It was epically... small.  But I guess it was good that it was small because the Panamanian and I had a lot of catching up to do.  Lots of good conversation with one of my best and most trusted buds.  He caught a few small ones.  I think I only caught two in three hours.  But I wasn't dissappointed at all.  It was a beautiful day and I was able to get some fantastic pictures.  The water was really clear and we watched a grey harbor seal swim slowly under our boards.  It was utterly breath taking.

Dawn Patrol.  3 Mile in the distance.

I also busted out the GoPro and caught some great footage.  Being that there was no one really out but us, I was able to get in good position and get some good footage of the Panamanian.  Check it out:


Just... Real Quick. from Kookingitup on Vimeo.

But being that I didn't catch much waves, I had to get my stoke elsewhere.  So I headed up north on the One, checked out a couple spots and ended up doing a session at Montara and Linda Mar.  The one thing I really love about both spots is that if you really have a lot of patience and calm your frustration, you can find some nuggets.  And also, wether it's shitty or not, there is always going to be some type of catchable wave.

Panama Red on one.

During my sesh at Linda Mar, I did my own thing.  I try to find the open spaces between the clusters.  I wait and wait, practice patience and being present.  Why?  Cuz usually waves will shift from one spot to another, especially on swing tides when a little bump in the sand becomes irrelevant because of the tides and another becomes surfable.  I'm able to stay in my spot alone for a while when the waves come up, but after 15 minutes of catching some decent closeouts (if there is one) the herds usually rush in.  And for some reason, there is this one dude on a fun board that always surfs the same time as me and follows me everywhere!  I swear I could be 100 yards away from him and he'll spot me, paddle over and sit right next to me.  I try to paddle (run if I have to) away from him, but like a shadow, he just keeps on following me, trying to snake everything I paddle for.  I always end up giving him the "turn my board and paddle" routine, and he falls for it, but then he paddles back, following me up and down the beach (excuse me why I vent my frustration.  LOL)

On a positive note, it looks like we'll be having some decent size swell for the next few weeks.  The ASP will be starting up at The Lane.  And a three day weekend is on the horizon.  Plus, my best friend is moving to San Diego!  Never again will I have to sleep in my car when I drive south for some waves.  Cheers to that!

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Change

I read this quote today, and thought it was pretty cool.  I’m still trying to figure out if it applies to surfing or not…

“Change will not come if we wait for some other person or some other time. We are the ones we’ve been waiting for. We are the change that we seek. “
-President Obama

Salt Water For Breakast

Got to Lindamar Beach around 9am. As I was driving on the One and as I usually do, I take a quick peak at Rockaway Beach. I was a bit surprised, as the waves were much bigger then usual. When I walked to the beach from the second parking lot past the Taco Bell I was struck by the vision of waves that were head high +. I was pretty excited, that is until I got caught in the milk. The waves just kept coming, non-stop for about an hour. By the time I got past the break, I was beat!

I was determined to catch a “big” wave. I wanted to test my new skills on something big and rough! I ended up catching a wave that was taller then me. I’m 5’8, so this had to be a six footer or bigger. Mind you, I’m on my 7 footer (board) now. I usually have to wait for a peak to happen to catch a wave, but today, it really didn’t matter, the waves were coming fast and they were pretty thick with a lot of power behind them. I caught this wave a few yards from where it was breaking. I popped up easily and I screamed down the face making a right. Just before I hit bottom, I turned it up and went up the wave. Then just before the crest, I leaned back and screamed down the face again. I wanted to do that again! But it didn’t work out. I screamed back up the face but leaned too far back and fell straight on my back from about 6 feet up. I was caught in the wash. It pulled me, rolled me, tugged me, choked me. I tried to stay calm, but after 10 seconds of being in a washing machine, I knew I had to get up for some air. I tried to find bottom so I can push up, but I was too deep. I just started paddling up, and about 10 seconds later I found air.

I thought I was done for! But that wasn’t the end of it. I was caught in the death zone and for about 5 minutes I was just ducking one monster after another trying to remember the #1 safety rule of surfing, hold on to your board! I ended up catching about 6 waves that were 5-7 feet high. I loved popping up on the top and screaming down! It was such a rush.

I ended up surfing another 4 hour session, but then I caught another shot of surfer’s rib. It’s a pain that is usually on your rib cage from lying on your board face down (which you are usually in when paddling out or catching a wave). I’ve had it on my left ribs before, but now my right ribs are hurting. It usually goes a way in a week and your ribs are much stronger after. And you get some definition there, which is a good thing when your shirt is off. I don’t mind it, it’s part of being a kook. I had fun today, survived a massive wave and finally started taking down some bigger monsters. I’m looking forward to Monday, when I’ll be hitting up the Bo’!

Linda Mar Session, 7/1/2011

 

Here are a couple of waves I caught at Lindamar today, July 1, 2011. I been making an emphasis to stay on top of the wave. I also have been trying to take a slightly longer angle on my drops. I didn’t include the spills, but there were a lot of them. Lindamar was good this morning, especially around nine a.m.. I got aggravated after a couple of mid thirty-year old long boarders (I think a husband and wife) started hogging all the good waves after they crashed our spot. I got over it, and took to their left and had more fun. I also met a couple of good guys. I always have a pretty good time at Lindamar these days. Hope to be out there tomorrow!

Getting Cut Off @ The Hook

This is me surfing at The Hook today.  I am the farthest guy on the left taking a right.  I got cut off twice on this wave.  But I was nice about it.  But still a bit pissed.

5am Wave Session

My drive for a five a.m. session on a Sunday morning.   Talk about being obsessed!  This takes place from Alameda to Lindamar Beach in Pacifica.  I cross the Bay Bridge, drive through San Francisco, than drive on Highway One and into Pacifica.  Had some nice waves that day which are in my prior video post.

Linda Mar POV 6/23/2004

Video of a POV of me surfing an AM session at Lindamar Beach in Pacifica, California.  Any pointers would really help.  I’m trying to practice my bottom turns.  I’m also having problems staying on top of the wave after I catch it.  I always seem to just drop even though I point the board in the right direction for a left or right.  Any advice will be appreciated.

Surf righteously brothers and sisters!

7'4...

I been surfing for three months now.  I went from a 10 foot foamer to a 9 foot foamer to a 8’6 epoxy to a 8 foot epoxy and now to this baby!  This is an arrow 7’3 x 20 3/4.  I have rode it about 5 times and I love it!  I’m still looking to get shorter though.  I’m thinking about getting as low as a 6’0 fish, if possible.  But right now I’m trying to “grow” into this board.  Seems like I have outgrown all the other boards, especially my 8’6 epoxy.  I just love how this thing rocks and the control (which I am learning) that I have on this board.  It seems like each new session on this board brings another new innuendo to my experience as a surfer.  I’m hoping that I will be able to ride this baby for at least a year before I outgrow it.

This board is easily transportable too.  I can fit in my car (no need to put it on the roof).  I also enjoy how lite it is, especially walking it out to the beach.

I read in books and other blogs that if you start surfing past your 30th birthday, you’ll be a longboarder for life.  I’m 33 and I’m trying to avoid all that.  Not that I don’t like riding longboards, they are hella (Northern California Slang for ‘really’x10) fun.  Some of the coolest surfers I met are longboarders.  But I’m not one to be stereotyped.  Hopefully I will be able to get to a short board (a board that is under 7’0) in the future.  But for now, I’m loving this board.

Obsession

You were never a morning person.  Now you set your alarm to 5:00 am.  You’re happy to hear the buzzing alarm.  You head to the breaks at 5:30am and its sixty degrees out.  You’re not complaining.  You slip your wetsuit on, grab your board and jump into 50 degree water.  You’re smiling.

Instead of checking your Facebook wall, your checking surfline at 6:30am at several beaches for the best breaks.

You’re always trying to get shorter.

You trade your small two door coup for a truck or a CRV to house your board.

You’re always wearing these type of shorts even in the winter:

You’re home page to Youtube is recommending 20 surfing videos.

You constantly feel the rock of the Ocean at work after a good session in the morning.

You’re surfing three to four days a week even though you live 30 miles from the nearest beach.

You get tired of people telling you “Nice tan”.

In match.com, instead of describing your perfect mate, you put one thing:  “Must be able to surf.”

You get this weird tan that starts from your forehead to your adam's apple.

You get burn marks on your cheek bones.

You stop hanging with people that don’t surf.

‘Kook’, ‘Dude’ and ‘Man’ become part of your every day speech.

You’re better at predicting weather patterns than a meteorologist.

Instead of planning a dream vacation to Europe or Las Vegas, you instead plan surfing trips to places like Scorpian Bay, Escondindo or Jaws.

You’re tan is from your head to the bottom of your neck and your hands are way darker than your arms.

You’re always dreaming off the water spilling of your rails.

When the sun goes down and your with your buddies having an outstanding session, you tell each other “UNO MAS!” ten times before ever heading to the shore.

Obsession.

Paddling Out

One of the hardest things that I have learned about surfing is paddling out past the break.  I live in Northern California, and the surf here can really kick the living shit out of you.  One of my friends, who’s also a kook, won’t even head to my home beach (Linda Mar in Pacifica) because he says he spends 90 percent of his time paddling out to get past the break.

The other day after I got slammed a few times, I came to the conclusion that paddling out is one of the tests a “freshman” kook must pass before he has graduated to a “sophomore” kook.  Being that I am a kook, you know my semi long board can’t duck dive any waves.  Either I have to flip it, try and make the wall before if breaks, go for it straight on, or in some case, all out bail! After watching some of the rippers at Surfer’s Beach in Half Moon Bay, I learned how to use the “channel”.  The channel is a section of the break where one waves ends and another begins.  I also followed some rippers up a rip at Linda Mar.  That didn’t work out to well because I ended up so far out that I kinda freaked out and learned not to paddle straight into the beach but sideways, along it.

The Ocean also has a way of humbling me.  After paddling out to a spot where I thought I was safe, a minute later, here comes a huge wall of water moving at 15 miles per hour breaking 10 yards away from me.  All I could say was “fuck me” and paddle fast enough to either get past it’s break or just suffer the consequences and end up in it’s washing machine.

But as the weeks have progressed, and my miles of paddling through crumbling waves increased, I have grown stronger in my arms, shoulders and lower back.  I have muscles I didn’t think existed!  A few months ago, I could only take a few strokes in the water before losing my breath. Now I can paddle at least 30 yards of charging seas before I need a break.  Plus, my wave catching ability, which has been disgusting to say the least, is much improved.

I guess the surfing God’s have a way of keeping the strong and tossing out the weak.  And yesterday, after paddling out through a really great channel, I caught a sweet long right that lasted for about 20 seconds.  I guess the Ocean rewarded me with a graduation into sophomore kookhood (with my hands raised high and yelling kook style)!