Twenty's

Convertible weather in January.  

I've been keeping tabs on this swell in and out of the water.  Large and sneaky, this swell caught me by surprise a few times during the last few days.  You know it's real after you take one on the head, lose your board in the process, pop out into foam after getting tumbled and seeing everybody else in the foam scratching for their boards.  Yeah,  I was both of those guys during the last few days.  Looking forward to the next few days on the other side of the bell curve.  My heart needs the rest.  It's been pumping continuously when I'm out in the lineup and also while I'm behind the camera.

If you know that roof, than you know whats up.

Here are a few shots from tonight.  It was just a wave show.  Felt bad for the fellas when that rogue set came through and cleaned everybody up, no matter where they were sitting.  I'll be posting a few extras here and there on Instagram through the week as I scavenge through the footage.

Can I have an extra large A-frame for a dollar more?

Taking it down with a little style. 

Lined it up nicely.

This guy was caught inside for half an hour. 

It was a beautiful San Diego sunset tonight.

Fun one.

Pocket, don't knock it.

Solo for once.

Another capture of tonight's beautiful sunset.

Last shot of the night.

Be safe folks.  If it's too big, sit it out.  There is always another swell around the corner.