Pictures from the bottom of the drawer

Her patience was rewarded.

Five days straight of some very big, sometimes freakish swell has past.  After clearing my sinuses, letting each drop of water clear my nose, I dug around my SD cards and found some pictures from this last weekend's swell.  I must be truthful and say that I did skip a day because it was just too gnarly.  After Friday's early morning incident of pearl diving to the bottom after getting hung up on what had to be a 14 foot face, I was a bit nervous.  But I did make it back out on Sunday  and catch the other side of the bell curve, which was really fun, somewhat manageable waves.   My wife decided to come along and snap some pictures while I was in the water.  Enjoy!

This was Friday.  The swell was suppose to hit San Diego hard that night, but it seemed as if the swell was fast and began entering into it's peak mode that morning.  It seemed relentless at times, 8-10 wave sets that just stacked one behind the other.  I did get some, but I almost drowned on one.  Ying and Yang I guess...

 Robin catching a chunker on Friday.  Days like this is when I give Long boarders who come out props, cuz there isn't any escape for them when a rogue rolls in.  Which happened multiple times.

I give this kid some props.  He was going for it.

Spelling was off, but not the waves at this spot.

I headed deep south for some international Las Olas.  Waves were still pumping that morning.  Casualties resumed.

 

My wife snapped some pics of me at this new spot that we found.  Lots of really cool locals, 4-6 feet, just glassy rights.  Caught a dozen or so fun waves.  I had a blast.  Can't wait to head back to this spot on the next big swell. 

One of the fun waves I caught with my GoPro at the new international spot. 

My wife and I had to stop over and say hi to Tacho and Roberto.  Always the best fish tacos in the T.J./ Rosarito area.

With an approximately 5 minute a 34 second wait with our Sentri Passes, we were able to cross back north and catch some fun ones back in The States.

Seemed to not have much luck with getting cut off on a bunch of waves, but after, me and this guy talked about the pictured action (from two different angles), we became pretty good buds.  Really nice guy, just forgot to look down the line. 

Who's going to win this race?  Short boarder or long boarder?

Blessed.

If you haven't and want to check out the waves from Saturday, click this Link. Have a great week in and out of the water!