I was laying bed, watching the really lame remake of "War of The Worlds". How can a movie that cost so much money be so bad? Anyways, it was a long night. Steve and I had a middle age type of rager out in O.B. last night. It was the kind of night where I woke up next to my wife and asked myself "How did I get here?" I called Steve and he didn't even remember me leaving to go home. At least I made it... with my car still in O.B. How'd that happen?
Steve texted me around 11 am the next day with a Cliff/OB report that included "Waves are breaking over the Jetty" and "Dude! There's waves breaking like a mile out sea." I drove down to Scripp's after some lunch with the love of my life to find perfect, peaky, 10 foot ++ waves. I saw one guy take a drop that took him at least three seconds to make. It was one of those big days, similar to San Francisco Ocean Beach, where the lip of the wave looks like its in slow motion as it crashes over it's giant belly. I wanted it so bad. But to be honest, no excuses, today's waves were above my pay grade. And my wife's too. Staph infection. No thanks. Being caught inside on a triple over head thrower. Maybe next week. I grabbed my camera instead and took some snaps of the action. Enjoy!
This fella was catching makeable barrels in front of me for a good hour and a half. Thanks for the stoke, who ever you maybe.
Busy day for S.D. Life Guards...
No bueno...
But, it could have been worth it...
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