As we dial up the clocks and the post-work surf becomes more a reality than a dream, as a surfer, I see winter fading into the distance. This hasn't been the greatest winter season. It seems like it is turning on just as it is turning off. I was lucky enough to experience surfing wintery California full fledged, shaping my schedule around the swells and tides. It was always something I wanted to do, and I feel blessed to have accomplished it. The dream of surfing another winter full throttle will probably never happen again. Now as I watch April first inch closer on my calendar and the inevitable schedule change that comes with a great career opportunity, I only know one thing, I have three more weeks to get surfed the f*%k out.
|Packed, just enough.|
I surfed Rincon two years back (check out that past blog here). I stumbled upon Rincon that year absolutely firing. I also met colorful characters, local Rincon aficionados who I still stay in touch with today. I also met a dog named Ripper who I shared a couch with, and who has chilled out over the last few years since I first petted his huge pit bull head. During that trip, because of the crowd factor, I caught two waves in six hours. But those two waves changed the way I looked and felt about surfing. I wanted that feeling again, see how I improved, and find out if I had what it takes to catch more than two waves in a crowd of great surfers.
I paddled out at the river mouth early in the afternoon and made my way up the point, about a good 50 yards from Indicators. The lineup wasn't as busy as it was 2 years ago and I had a spot that separated me from the small pack. Within twenty minutes, I took off on a good sized peak and rode that thing all the way into the inside of the Cove. I than paddled into the cove just a bit and caught another streamer within 10 minutes that lined up perfectly all the way into the highway. Two years ago - 2 waves in 6 hours. 1st session back - 2 waves in 30 minutes.
It wasn't as good as the day I first surfed Rincon. There was a lot of chop, and mixed up swell. But my board control, speed and experience is much better now, and I surfed the hell out of what the locals called "an O.K. day" at Rincon. An O.K. day at Rincon is probably a really good day at my local break. So I wasn't complaining at all. I went on to catch a dozen waves in about three hours, Two of them from the top of the river mouth to almost the highway.
After grubbing on that tasty food, I decided to take a drive up to Ojai before my next sesh. On the drive up, I came across this town called "Casitas Springs". According to a local in Ojai, Casitas Springs name to fame is that Johnny Cash lived there during his older and "tumultuous" years. It seemed like a good fit for Cash, as it was just close enough to L.A. and far enough from L.A. Another local I spoke to in Ojai said she was in a girl scout troop with Cash's daughter and didn't realize it until she saw Cash at a troop meeting. As for Ojai, it's cool little town up the mountain. Beautiful drive up, very nice people and cool little shops. I stopped by an ice cream parlor and chatted with a few locals who gave me the scoop on Cash.
The next morning, I woke up early, busted out my camera and took pictures of clean and uncrowded Rincon for about 30 minutes. During this trip, I didn't get as much footage and pictures as usual. The surf looked so damn good, that I said "screw it" and stuck all the cameras in the car and ran out with my board and jumped into the surf. That morning, I counted about twenty-five heads in the lineup, all spread out from the top of the river mouth to the inside of the cove. I paddled out at the river mouth as usual and commenced to do three "walk arounds" within the first hour. Rincon can be like a factory. It sends you on a one minute ride all the way to highway, and you just get out, walk back up the point, jump in and commence to do the same thing over and over again. But the Rincon factory doesn't spit out a product (maybe it does with the 20 photographers all lined up on the beach?), it just creates massive stoke!
|I think this was my first picture when I walked out on my third day. I snapped a few and then joined the fun.|
The one thing that is inevitable at Rincon, since it is a full on point, is the fact that your going to get snaked on a few. It appears that people waiting way on the inside get really frustrated. I would too, if instead of catching waves, I was watching people fly by from Indicators or The River Mouth straight through The Cove. So once in a while, a drop-in occurs. On one wave, a guy a looked at me twice before deciding to drop-in. I kept a real tight line right behind him as he tried to speed off. I guess he didn't realize that I could surf fast too. He would look back to try a cut back and I would be right behind him with a big fat B.D. smile. Not today bud. He decided to kick out after twenty seconds of sharing the wave with me which was great, because the wave started to wall up again as I entered the middle of the cove. The end of that wave was probably my most memorable. The thing just lineup perfectly, no sections ahead. It was just a straight stream of Rincon goodness. I just grabbed some wave with my right hand, stayed close to the pocket and let that sweet thing chandelier me. I think Rincon was just trying to make up for some of the bad etiquette provided by her sons.
My best advice for Rincon is to play the "Old Man's Game". I was taught this by a very wise man in San Diego. Paddle farther out than anyone or into a space where you have room, and wait. It may take an hour, it might take 15 minutes, but when there is swell, a wave will come. I paddled farther out than most on a couple until I got room. Eventually a set would come and I would jump on the last wave, unobstructed and cruise.
Rincon is a great wave. But even though it is a point, all the waves are different. One wave could be a cruiser, and all you have to do is steer straight and time to time do a check turn to slow down. Other waves are fast. You have to pump hard to make the crashing sections. Other waves are steep and made for climbing high, awesome turns and one steep drop after another. It's a great wave, and I'll definitely be back either soon or next winter.
Rincon from Kookingitup on Vimeo.