El Rosario to Mulege

The first thing we did before we departed from El Rosario was top off our gas tank.  The stretch we were about to embark on was probably the longest day of the trip.  I noticed the lady filling up next to us get out of her car with toilet paper.  Rule # 7 while traveling in Mexico:  Bring toilet paper.  I bet if you brought an extra soft, 16 pack, Charmin double roll you could bargain it for a twelve pack of Indio.

When we left El Rosario, we did not see one gas station for about a 250 miles until Guerrero Negro (or G Negro on the road signs).  We had an extra jerrycan in the back, so we were pretty confident we were going to make it unless something sudden occurred.  And just in case were stranded for some reason, rest assured, we could count on flagging down a "Ángeles Verdes" or Green Angel, who could get us on our way.

This 250 mile stretch had character.  One thing I noticed was that instead of gas stations, there were a bunch of Llanteras (or used wheel shops).  Who cares if you don't have gas, you'll never run out of tires!

In my opinion, the 250 miles stretch between El Rosario and Guerrero Negro was probably my favorite "driving" part of the entire trip.  You start from the Pacific Ocean, cruise through a lush and beautiful section of desert in the middle of Baja, then you hit the Pacific Ocean at Guerrero Negro and then cruise back through the middle of Baja where there is this beautiful stretch of rock formations that go's on for 50 miles or so.  And after that, you hit the peacefulness of the Sea of Cortez.  And let me tell you, the Sea of Cortez side of Baja is absolutely stunning!!!  In some ways, the topography is similar to countries in South East Asia.  But that's for the next blog entry.

The 50 mile stretch of magnificent rock formations.

Taking it all in while looking for some surf.  Why?  Because it's out there, somewhere.

I was told once that Baja is one big desert with beaches along the way.  But that's not true.  That is entirely off.  Baja is full of different deserts, all having their own character and characteristics.  I never imagined deserts being so lush and grand.  There were some parts of the drive that rivaled the view of The Grand Canyon.  And the freshness of Baja, from that dry yet moist air, the way the light of the sun and moon shines in this part of the world, and all the vast, unpopulated areas.  Add a hint of sea breeze and all those gaps from my regular home life (minus Seinfeld and The Big Bang Theory) were filled. 

An Oasis

Every fifty miles or so we'd run into these beautiful Oasis.  Full of trees and life, one could see that Baja is a very special part of the world.  With the Pacific on one side and the Sea of Cortez on the other, the desert's soil is full of minerals and vitamins most deserts do not have. Because of this, Baja is lush with life.  I know I have used the word "lush" a few times now, but that's my best way of describing Baja's beauty.  Simply, Baja is full of Lush deserts.

Tacos El Muelle.  B.D. recommended while in Guerrero Negro.

Half way to Mulege, we stopped at Guerrero Negro.  This town draws the line between Baja Norte and Baja Sur.  Besides being a big fishing town, I think it's also known for whale watching.  Whale sculptors and whale paintings are everywhere.  On a side note, just before we entered town we had to stop at the Mexican Agriculture Office.  For some odd reason, we had to pay ninety pesos to pass.  I don't know about that folks....

When I started surfing Baja a few months back, I was always vexed by Mexican Military Check Points.  They always picked me out of the lineup for their daily car search spree.  They were never pushy about it, they always asked politely.  Along with the politeness and a guy behind a stack of tires with a torrent pointed my way, I always obliged.  But as I got used to the check points, I realized that the soldiers providing the service were just kids.  They probably came from small towns in Mexico where there isn't much, and are doing everything in their power to not only move up in the world, but also provide support for their families, never leaving their roots.  With the small Spanish that I speak, I always try to actively engage with them, ask them how their days are going, if they need any water or snacks.  They always see my surfboard and know I'm not trying to get into any trouble other than big surf I really don't belong in. And I'm pretty thankful Mexico does this.  They are just letting everybody know that the military is present, so don't fuck around.  And I can dig that.  These mighty warriors above were sweathearts.  They look hard and probably are hard, but just as stoked as the next surfer passing by their point.

MC and a shaggy dog.

We ended this segment of the trip in Mulege, a town on the Cortez Coast.  MC Google mapped the distance we were traveling that day, and boy, Google was way off.  About a 100 miles off.  I think we drove an estimated 400 miles.  We even broke Rule #2:  Don't drive at night.  This was my first time driving in at night in Mexico, and from all the stories I've heard, this was a big no-no.  Nerves were starting to jolt, but the worst thing that could happen, well, never really happened.  We ended up at this pretty nice hotel in Mulege.  I forgot the name of the place, but it was really near the main square and basketball courts.  I liked Mulege a lot.  It is a very quaint town and appears very community oriented.  According to our hotel concierge, Mulege was safe enough to leave our boards racked to top of the car (which we didn't do.  "One can never be to safe with one's magic stick"  that according to Swayze, the Mexican Jedi).

Next blog:  Mulege to Cerritos...  Insta swell!

PS.  If you missed any legs of the trip so far, click on the link!

1.  Tijuana to El Rosario
2.  El Rosario to Mulege
3.   Mulege to Cerritos
4.  Four Days In Los Cerritos: Part I
5.  Four Days In Los Cerritos: Part II
6.  The Baja Ferry