The Shuffle

Week One from Kookingitup on Vimeo.

The first day I was in San Diego, Swayze and I decided to take drive along the beautiful coastline near my home.  We ended up in south La Jolla, checking out a couple breaks from a small culdesac that had a magnifcent view of big blue.  While checking out some of the reef breaks, we got to talking to this older guy who wore dark sunglasses, shorts, a t-shirt that read "Old Guys Rule" and a pair of Rainbow flip flops.  The first advice he gave us was when at beach breaks, shuffle our feet once in the water.  Apparently, San Diego sandy beaches are infested by sting rays of all sizes, and they love to wallow in the sand.  The old guy told us to disrupt the sand in front of us, which would cause the sting rays to swim off.  But if stepped on, one would recieve a sharp tail through their foot that included venom that could make a grown man cry.

They are taught young down here.  Her Dad was so stoked when she stood up that it got me stoked.

Of course I started the "San Diego Shuffle" once in the water, but once the water gets to waist high, I just jump on my board and start paddling to avoid any misfortune.  In addition, I learned that it's a good way to spot locals and seasoned surfers and those who have less experience.  Locals are "shufflers", while the beginners and out of towners are the "stompers".  But also, it tells me which peak to pick. If I surf at a peak full of stompers, I can get a buffet of peaks and corners to my choosing.  If I choose a peak with shufflers, there is a lot more sharing and my wave count diminishes, but not significantly.

Panama Red and I going North.

But what about San Diego reef breaks?  Reef breaks offer up their own obstacles.  When I was a kid living on the Big Island, walking on sharp reefs was just a way of life.  Big Island feet usually grow thick calluses after about a few years of walking on sharp lava rock inside and outside of the Ocean.  But my feet have grown accustomed to Main Land life, which includes pedicures, daily appliance of creamy moisturizing lotion and the daily use of shoes.  Since surfing the reef breaks here in San Diego, I have found that I no longer have my Hawaiian calluses but instead cuts on the bottom of my feet every time I paddle back in.  The old shufflers in the lineup have advised me to wear booties.  But I hate booties, especially in the warmer waters of Southern California.  But that is just the stubborn Filipino in me, which can only learn through experience and pain.  Presently, I'm dealing with a bandage which is secured with duct tape on the bottom of my right foot covering a huge gash.  But are reef breaks worth it, the cuts on my hands and on the bottom of my feet?  Oh yes.

Another recent ride North.  I keep trying to go back home.

My transition to San Diego life has been pretty smooth so far.  I've been surfing a lot with Cynthia.  She has been showing me the ropes of San Diego surf life.  It's been fun splitting peaks with her.  Also, I came to San Diego at the beginning of a handful of medium sized south swells, which have only stalled for about a day since I've been here.  The first day I was out at Scripps, which is a beach just north of La Jolla Shores, I caught eight straight open faces from the outside straight into the beach.  It was unbelievable.  I've also caught some really primo days at some of the reef breaks around my home.  I know that Mother Earth has to take a deep breath soon and with that, the swells will stall for a bit.  But when she starts going again, I can't wait to catch this place on a 8 feet @ 18 seconds type of swell.

Swayze looking for peaks and corners. 

The lineups here in San Diego have actually really been refreshingly humble.  The old shufflers have really been helpful, offering layers of advice that goes back in some cases, thirty years.  There is a lot more color in the lineup with different accents and backgrounds, which I can really appreciate being that I am a brother from a lighter shade of brown.  I've learned many new names and even more nicknames.  And it's great to see a middle age guy go from age fifty to age twelve once he's in the lineup with his buddies.  A far cry to the quiet, librarian atmosphere that goes down in some of the breaks in NorCal.

Manav is down for the week and enjoying some of the swell and warm water (NorCal warm that is).

One thing I learned early is that San Diego, for all it's gleaming sun, beaches, burnt out surfers and bikinis is a historically huge and proud military town.  Out in the lineup, I'm surfing with Navy Seals, Captains, fighter jet pilots, foot soldiers and so on.  Around 8 a.m. on the dot, the Navy fighter jets fly in formation and head out to sea over my head, probably from Miramar where the legendary "Top Gun" school is.

Corleone and I enjoying some time at his Home Break at Beacons.

But let me tell you, the biggest sweethearts are the Military guys and gals.  They are the most humblest, nicest, most sharing surfers in the lineup.  And everybody in the lineup loves them, giving them the most utter respect.  I met a handful of really cool military folks in the water who serve their country and are loving fathers and mothers. And these folks love the ocean just as much as the next surfer and can surf the hell out of a perfect peeling wave.  Hats off to our military folks and one big stoked out smile to beautiful San Diego County, my new home.

Knapps doing his thing.

P.S. Every time I see the highway signs say "I-5 North Los Angeles", it weirds me out.