|Double overhead on tap and everybody is getting on it from Churches all the way down to Cottons|
For anybody that wants to camp out at the Bluffs, the best sites are sites 1-10. You get this gorgeous view of the Ocean. Make sure you bring plenty of shade and ear plugs. SoCal camping is a trip, most campsites are parallel to the highway, so there is plenty of noise, especially during early morning rush hour. But it really didn't matter, I surfed all day and only came back to sleep. Once I hit the mat, it was over.
I surfed like a mad man, pulling at least three sessions in one day. A day before this trip, I had just returned from a huge bender in Vegas with Swayze and Manav. It took me a half day to get my groove back and shake off all the sin. When I hit the beach on Tuesday, August 7th, it was straight up firing double overhead. I caught a few bombs out back and a few in front of the flag pole at Uppers. I ran into a couple of the locals that I came to be friends with in the lineup. I ran into Scott who shared the line up with me and Kelly in December. We still share that fond memory and how fast Kelly surfed. Good times.
I surfed Barb-Wires for my third session on Wednesday, August 8th. I saw this petite chick just catching these bombs on the outside for a half hour. Where ever she lined up, the bombs came. I decided where ever she lined up, I was going to line up. We exchanged bombs for the next hour, she catching the first and giving the me the second of the set. We got to talking and she turned to be a very cool kat. When ever a big set would come, she would sniff it out, look at me and give me a cute smile and whisper "outside..." and nod her head for me to fall her out deep. She ended up giving me one of the bombs of the trip, a double overhead right that I was able to snap off twice for two memorable drops. Rights at Barbs are a commodity, and I was lucky enough to make this right look good. She is actually a reporter for "The Patch", covering San Clemente. Check out her reports on surfing @ http://sanclemente.patch.com/users/jackie-connor/blog_posts . She writes some great stuff.
Swayze showed up Thursday morning with a dozen Crispy Cremes and a half gallon of milk. That's why this dude is my best friend! This was Swayze's first time surfing, so I geared him up with the "Kamehameha Board". The first lesson: Paddle out with me and learn how to sit on your board. If you can't sit on your board, you'll never be able to stand on it. Swayze paddled out with me at Uppers, which looked pretty mellow that day. But right when we got into the lineup, bombs started showing up. Swayze took some on the head, but he paddled right back out. He did fine folks, just added 10 pounds with all the water he swallowed.
|Me and Bill Martin from KTVU, Channel 2 News. Homies 4 life!|
I met Bill and his daughter a day before Swayze paddled out. During one of the days at mid afternoon, Bill and I were chilling in front of the flag pole at Uppers and a really good wave approached us from the outside. Bill looked at me and said "This wave has your name on it B.D., I'll block for you". Do I have to say anymore about dude? Truly, a great guy with a great family.
Memorable moment with Bill: Big set just came in and I'm looking for Swayze who was chilling on the inside. I look over and see Bill. Bill yells "You looking for Swayze?" I reply "Yeah!" "I think he took one on the head!" Bill yelled back. We both look down shore and Swayze was on the beach. We both look at each other and just smiled.
|Swayze falling in love with Mrs. Pacific.|
On Thursday, Don Corleone and Knapp Sack showed up and we surfed Uppers until dawn. While in the lineup, I noticed this really hot chick just ripping! I paddled a bit closer to check out her "skillz" and to my surprise, it was Alana Blanchard.
|Alana Blanchard @ Uppers. Photo taken by Don "Corleone" Chase.|
Sun Burnt and surfed out, I decided to paddle in and watched Alana rip. Don Corleone and Knapp Sack handed me a beer and we watched Swayze yelling ouch every 5 seconds as he tried to walk in over the sharp cobble stones of Uppers. I think we finished three beers before he made his way in. Oh, and we also watched the beautiful sunset.
I ended the trip by surfing Lowers like I always do. I did alright, catching a few good inside waves and a couple bigger ones out back. But mostly, I was just watching the talent. Some one had told me that a Women's ASP event was happening at Oceanside. Being that it was early and a swell was peaking out, a bunch of pro gal's were in the lineup. I recognized Coco Ho, but none of the others. Most of the gals in the lineup were pros, having sponsors all over their boards and ripping the shit out of Lowers. I got tired of the crowds and paddled over to Middles where me and this other silent fella shared a great peak to ourselves for two hours. Never surfed Middles before, but I will surf it again for sure. It's not a point break, but then again it's not a beach break either. Some type of hybrid break. But that's how all the breaks are at Trestles except for Lowers. Hybrid breaks that have perfect walls, fun drops, long rides, along with hot chicks and hot surfers. Paradise on the left coast for sure.
|Homies and surfing. The good life. The B.D. and Knapp Sack.|
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Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!