"Lowell" and Behold

I love long period South swells just as much as everybody else.  But when a significant storm builds in the tropics just south of us, and then gets a name, I can dig that too.  This swell was around 10 to 12 seconds rather than the standard 14 - 16 second south swell, swell period.  Rather then sitting around for a half hour waiting on sets like on most south swells, our south facing beach breaks and reefs (and the ones across the boarder) became instant wave machines.

Some random guy on a charismatic wave.

The waves weren't huge, and the the spots where the waves decided to break weren't as usual, but hey, when waves are in the head high range and sometimes well overhead and firing, who gives a damn, right?  Saturday had to be by far the best surfing day of the summer.  Wave after wave after wave just kept pushing through.  I surfed that day down in Baja at a spot that usually doesn't have much of a crowd, but on this day, the crowd was there and about.  But everybody was pretty much stoked because the sets came in sixes and sometimes nines.  How did I know this?  Because I broke my rule and paddled into the first one a couple of times.  I counted eight on my head as I paddled back out.

Me going left.

Over the flat spell, I've been working really hard in the gym.  The Bearded Bandito gave me some good advice a couple months ago.  "We work our arms and upper body all the time in the water.  We just gotta worry about our core and legs."  Since I received that great advice, I've been working my core and legs really hard, adding in a lot of push-ups and pull-ups, using my own body weight with higher reps.  And It really has helped.  Two moves that I really think have made a difference is double and single leg wall squats.  Adding 40 to 50 pounds to each consecutive set (6 sets, holding 45-60 seconds) have really helped me set my legs nice and square on my board, setting my bottom turn for cutbacks and snaps.  Before, my legs would shake if I held them in a power position, but now, no problem.  Since I have started this core and leg regime, my bottom turn, turns of the top and going backside where you really have to hold your center of gravity have become much more manageable. 

'Ol Knappy pigdogging it!

But anyways, the surf was awesome and looking at the forecast, we're in for more swell.  Unbelievable how things work out.  From flat to firing.  Glad I stayed in shape.  Here are more pictures that my wife and I took of the past swell.  Til next time.  Or until the arms fall off.

Alex on a hum dinger.

The Bearded Bandito heading into the hot sun.

This dude was on a couple juicy ones.  I should have sat next to him.

This one pretty much lined up for me.

This is that "dude" again, ripping another juicy one.

He knows he's on a good one.

The stronger and more in shape my legs are, the more I enjoy going left.

'Ol Knappy on his last wave.  It was pretty good one too.

I'm trying to finish what I started. 

Some of my wife's artistic shots that she wanted me to post..

Spot give away...

And my wife wanted me to post this one just to make sure that there is proof that I'm still a kook...

All of the shots from the shore are credited to my wife.