Monday, October 22, 2012

Missed. Nearly.

In my last blog, I went over to Santa Cruz to pick up Mrs. Go To.  I was able to get my board, have a fun time at my third favorite spot with super charger Panama Red.  But the next day, I got text after text from some of the Kiwi's telling me how epic Ocean Beach was that day (Saturday, October the sixth to be exact).  I went to stokereport to see if all of this was true, and low and behold, it was one of the five epic days all year that Ocean Beach becomes a world class wave nest...

Courtesy of  Grant Ly
Courtesy of  Grant Ly
Courtesy of  Grant Ly

Courtesy of  Grant Ly
I talked to other fellow OBers the following Sunday and they all said that it was one of those days where you could hang out on the inside and the outside and catch nuggets.  I knew just what they were talking about.  When OB gets epic, the third bar cleans up larger waves so when they hit the second bar, they are perfect size, tubing beauties.  And when the waves are around 8-10 feet on the third bar, they are a couple feet bigger then the second bar, but still as beautiful.  And I missed it.  But it's all good.  Gotta stay positive.

My favorite days at OB look like this:

I headed out to OB the following Sunday to find that parking was next to none due to the Marathon that was going on.  I got lucky and found a quick spot on Sloat.  I parked near the Zoo, walked over to the Sloat lot and found that the outer bar was clean, no wind and next to empty because of the Marathon and the lack of parking.

A marathon for a great cause.  But they could do less of the Lady Ga Ga music...
I ran back, suited up, got my board, waxed it and ran back down the new sandy hill.  I did my 10 minute stretch, took a deep breath and paddled out.  Even on softer days, paddling out can be a bitch at OB.  But I got lucky, found a rip and made it out back in 10 minutes.  Breathing hard and needing a rest, a nice 6 foot, high tide chunk of a wave headed my way.  Still breathing hard, I turned my board, waited for it to come, paddled into it and caught a fun, fast right.  I had too much fun because I found myself on the inside and it took me another 10 minutes to get out back.

I stuck around for 2 hours, caught a handful of fun, sorta mushy waves.  The last wave I caught was one of the bigger waves of the day, a chunky, pushy left.  I caught it way to inside and decided to land on my belly and catch it into the shore.

Tired and stoked I headed back to the car, dressed up and munched on a banana.  I stopped by Aqua Surf Shop, heard a debate about Epoxy vs. PU, checked out some gear, bought me a pretty sweet shirt and headed back to the car.

Aqua Dog
I wanted to surf more, but I didn't want to waste all my energy on a 30 minute paddle out.  So I headed out to Linda Mar, bumped into Kush, said 'WAZZUP!', then suited up and headed out to Alaska.  Had a fun sesh with sixty good friends.  I overheard somebody say (as always) "Dude, it's hella crowded".  But isn't it always hella crowded at Lindy?  I actually like it now.  I dig the new surfers.  They carry this stoke, this joy of just being in the water.  It's pretty contagious if you let it.

I headed home pulled up to this chilled out dog.

He was wearing a pair of Ray-Bans and was digging life.

I surfed a couple times last week, but nothing spectacular.  I was just happy to be in the water, watching the sun and sometimes the fog filter in and out of the bay as they usher in the winter.  Winter is around the corner and more epic days will be had.  I can't wait, Me and Mrs. OB have some making up to do.

Heads up, great little surf film festival headed our way.  Went to the last one and it was pretty epic (Like OB was).  Check it out @ Save The Waves Film Festival .  All proceeds go to a great cause.  I'll be there for sure!  It will be held at at the Victoria Theater in the Mission on November 16th.

Last off, I want to congratulate the S.F. Giants who are headed back to the World Series.  To make it clear, I am an A's fan.  But...  the Giants have heart and never say never will.  Gotta respect that.  Bring it back to the Bay ya'll.

You can also find me on:

Facebook @ Kookingitup


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