No, Never Me

Massive Puerto Escondido May 3-4 2015. Biggest Swell In 20 Years from Shifting Sands on Vimeo.

So insane!  Made the hair on my arms stand up!

Never to Late

This is my favorite GoPro barrel ever by C.J. Hobgood in Fiji.  A little late, as it was a post from GoPro a few months ago.  I just want to make sure I can find it so I can watch it over and over again. 

Eric

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O.G. Eric sometime this year.  I think that's Gustavo paddling over, scoping with some wave envy.  Sorry it took a while to post it.  I had to search the archive for it. 

The Darth Vader

"The Darth Vader"

Lately, I have been feeling like I need to add some spice to my surf life.  I'm pretty much a consummate standard, thruster, short boarder who has a variety of boards that are virtually the same but of different sizes and thickness.  I have my quiver locked in to whatever condition Mother Ocean happens to dish out.  But over the last few months I have been looking for something different, a particular board that goes in between the long, and the short.  A board that will ride different, but not too different.  And ever since I started playing on a Wave Storm, I've been wanting a real wide nosed board that I can walk the plank with.  

And this is what I found.  The Darth Vader, 6'3 x 20ish", somewhat thick, but not too thick, and pretty darn light for how much glass and foam it was born with.  My buddy Steve in The Bay put me on to this shape.  He inspired me to think different and be more open minded about what I ride.  Steve surfed the heck out of a board just like this during some pretty heavy days while we were out at the Cliffs few years back.

I really wanted to practice what I preach and stay local on everything "surf" that I purchase.  This board is was shaped in San Diego and by a San Diegen. I also plan to ride this single finned, so I found this really beautiful fin shaped by Skip Frye.  

If your a married surfer, then you know how much compromise you have to lay down for your spouse to allow you to buy a new board.  And dude, I gave up a lot of dignity for this board.  Compromise, compromise, give in.  That is the life of a married surfer ;)

I really don't buy new boards unless I have them shaped for my standards now days.  But I found this board used and for a pretty incredible price at the Bird Rock Surf Shop.  Pretty stoked on it. I'm looking forward to creating some good memories with the "Darth Vader".

Far From You

Blessed to live by the Sea. But When I lived 45 minutes away, I appreciated it way more.  I never take it for granted though.

Just Incase: "EO Travel Backpack" Review

Incase sent me this sleek travel backpack in the mail just before my trip back to The Bay last weekend.  The "EO Travel Backpack" had enough room to fit all that I needed for my quick trip to witness my baby cousin's #thebigfatfilipinoirishwedding.  I'm not the best of packers, but with the expandable main compartment, I was able to fit at least three days worth of clothes, my toiletry bag and two pairs of shoes.  Don't believe me?

In addition to all that, I also packed my iPad into a padded sleeve that provided protection all the way to The Bay and back.  We were able to fit all our cables with no problem in the same compartment.  There is even a small pocket on the head of the backpack where I placed my phone and keys for easy access.  What I really enjoyed about this travel backpack is that it's just the right size for carry-on requirements when we flew (even when expanded).  It fit easily into the overhead compartment.

It would be sweet if the part of the "EO Travel Backpack" that held my iPad and cables could detach for use, like a day pack when I'm traveling.  Then I could leave all of my clothes and things that I don't want to to bring for the day in my room.   However, the compartment that held all my techie stuff felt very durable, built with solid material and appeared to be pretty weather resistant if I ever decide to get caught in a rainstorm while heading to some south swell spot in the Central America.  

Other than that, this is a pretty sweet pack.  If you plan on taking a quick trip to Vegas, or a three day work trip and you want something slick and efficient, this is your travel backpack.  Me, I'm taking this baby on my next trip to warmer surf (think:  just this backpack and my surfboard).  I'll be light and fast, like a surf ninja.

I'm use to traveling with my roller and was suspicious that this pack would be heavy and uncomfortable.  But it totally wasn't!  It felt light, fit my shoulders well and I was able to adjust it easily to the contours of my back.  Pretty awesome travel back pack for people on the go!  B.D. approved! Check out this link to Incase for more details.