- The crew
There is this spot a couple miles south of Santa Cruz that we've been going to lately. If the waves in Town are 3-4 feet, this spot will be 5-6 feet. Me and Panama Red surfed this place in the winter and got decimated! I have to give Panama some props because he stuck it out on the inside on that day and went for it! But there is always a price to pay. He got destroyed on a thick and fast eight footer, we're talking human body and board over the falls destroyed! Some lady that was paddling back out looked at me and said worryingly "I hope he's still alive...".
- BD on some spring mush at the "Mile".
The Duck and I were out there last summer in 2011 on a moderate South Swell and we got decimated that day too. The walls were super steep and fast. I was able to catch two on that day. Two waves were worth the punishment. I think back now about this first encounter with this wave and I can't believe that I tried to surf this spot with only 4 months under my belt. Ignorance is bliss I guess.
- Party wave with the crew.
Now days, I'm into steep faces, fast drops and big bottom turns. I've been trying to grab a barrel out here (at least ones that won't closeout eighty percent of the time like the ones at OB). I've been copying the pros by sticking my right arm in the wave to decrease my speed. It works, but I been getting mostly mad hatters instead of anything legit. I'm waiting for the south swells to pick up. When the south's hit this spot, the waves are a lot longer. The longer the waves at this spot, the more chances for a barrel because the wave hits different sections and walls up for some sick action.
I can't say the least about this spot a couple miles south of the Town. It is beautiful, somewhat remote and resembles something like what would be an undeveloped coast. Plus, I like driving back up North to The City on the One. I think it's one of the most beautiful stretches of road in the world.
Here is a video of our session at this spot a few weeks ago.
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Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!
