Let the countdown begin....

A Kook, Black's Beach And A Mystery Key

The Cardiff Kook

After my week long adventure at Trestles, I decided to head south with Swayze and hang out with my extended "Familia".  On the way, we decided to stop by Patagonia's Cardiff-by-the-Sea surf shop (why does Cardiff put "-" in between each word anyway? That's just bad grammar.).  My favorite Patagonia board shorts ripped while surfing at Trestles, and I wanted to see if they could stitch it up.  To my surprise, it was an easy exchange and I picked up the same exact shorts.

Patagonia art at their surf shop at Cardiff-by-the-Sea.

Swayze and I picked up a couple half priced T-shirts and board shorts.  I also picked up a "One California Day" hat, not knowing it was a movie until a few days ago.  No matter, it's a pretty sick hat anyway.

Swayze and I were mad hungry.  Just a block a way was "The Kook's Cafe".  What a perfect place for two kooks to get grub!  I ordered the Corn Beef and Hash with 2 eggs over easy (my all time fave).  The food was ono!

Pop's stealing my new hat.  But damn, it looks good on
"The Most Interesting Man In The World".

We cruised down to "National City", home of Sweetwater High and El Swayze.  We hanged out with La Familia before again heading out to get some more grub at "Phil's" in San Diego.  I know what your thinking, 'Damn, this dude is a pig!' But come'on! All I had the week before were nuts, Gatorade, protein shakes and Pedro Tacos!  I needed some real, fattening, good 'ol American grub.  With my plate filled to the max with a stack of pork ribs, potatoe and macaroni salad, I was one happy B.D.!  (If your still wondering what a B.D. is, check out Jaime Murry's description @ http://headhighglassy.blogspot.com/2012/04/baby-damulag.html ).

One Happy B.D. @ Phil's

The next morning, Swayze and I woke up at the break of dawn and headed for La Jolla Shores.  We met up with Knapp Sack (a born and raised San Diego native) at the Scripps parking lot and headed north on La Jolla Shores to La Jolla Farms, parked our car, suited up and headed down the steep road to Black's.  This is Knapp's home break, he has been surfing this spot since he was a grom.  He has fond memories of topless beauties and big barrells breaking near the shore.  Lucky bastard!

On the way down to Black's.
Kook on the left and a Kook on the right.

Here's a video of our session at Black's:

Black's is a beautiful beach with lots of sand, huge cliffs and plenty of marine life right under your board.  I've heard of epic barrels and pounding surf during the north west swells of the winter at this beach break.  But being that it was summer and the south swell angled more north towards L.A., it wasn't as big as I thought it would be. It maxed out at about five feet, but a steep five feet it was. When this wave hits the sandbar, the take off gets pretty "elevatorish". 

The walk back up the hill is another story. I thought Swayze was going to have a heart attack a couple of times.  But like a trooper, he carried the "Kamehameha Board" all the way back to the truck.  It would have been easier if we had the mysterious "Key" to the gate so we could drive back up the hill, but supposedly, this key is only given to high rollers, San Diego Chargers, Padres, Cheerleaders, the cast from "Save By The Bell" and blonds who drive Mercedes. I promised Knapps that if I ever come across some cash, I would find that Key, buy it and give it to him so that the next ten generations of Knappsters can enjoy Black's without the killer walk back.  Knapps just looked over at me, sweating and breathing hard, and said "I'm gonna hold you to that dude."

Dad's Breakfast

I ended the trip by having the legendary "Dad's Breakfast" that includes freshly sliced chicharrón, hand made tortillas, fresh guacamole, fresh barbecue salsa and plenty of love.  Good food, good surf, Familia and a homey named Knapp Sack.  What more can a guy ask for?  

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Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!

Squeezing The Last Drip Out Of Summer

Double overhead on tap and everybody is getting on it from Churches all the way down to Cottons

I have the type of job where I get a few months off every summer.  When August hits and it's almost time to clock back in, I always get the yearning to run.  And what better place to run to then San Clemente, the home of one of my most favorite breaks, Trestles. 

Camp B.D.

This was more like a trip for the soul, down to the bone and all alone.  I had two days to myself before my best bud Swayze came down and I took full advantage of it.  I set up camp at the "Bluffs", campsite 8 and had a beautiful view of my the mistress, Mrs. Pacific.

For anybody that wants to camp out at the Bluffs, the best sites are sites 1-10.  You get this gorgeous view of the Ocean.  Make sure you bring plenty of shade and ear plugs.  SoCal camping is a trip, most campsites are parallel to the highway, so there is plenty of noise, especially during early morning rush hour.  But it really didn't matter, I surfed all day and only came back to sleep.  Once I hit the mat, it was over.

I surfed like a mad man, pulling at least three sessions in one day.  A day before this trip, I had just returned from a huge bender in Vegas with Swayze and Manav.  It took me a half day to get my groove back and shake off all the sin.  When I hit the beach on Tuesday, August 7th, it was straight up firing double overhead.  I caught a few bombs out back and a few in front of the flag pole at Uppers.  I ran into a couple of the locals that I came to be friends with in the lineup.  I ran into Scott who shared the line up with me and Kelly in December.  We still share that fond memory and how fast Kelly surfed.  Good times.  

I surfed Barb-Wires for my third session on Wednesday, August 8th.  I saw this petite chick just catching these bombs on the outside for a half hour.  Where ever she lined up, the bombs came.  I decided where ever she lined up, I was going to line up.  We exchanged bombs for the next hour, she catching the first and giving the me the second of the set.  We got to talking and she turned to be a very cool kat.  When ever a big set would come, she would sniff it out, look at me and give me a cute smile and whisper "outside..." and nod her head for me to fall her out deep.  She ended up giving me one of the bombs of the trip, a double overhead right that I was able to snap off twice for two memorable drops.  Rights at Barbs are a commodity, and I was lucky enough to make this right look good. She is actually a reporter for "The Patch", covering San Clemente. Check out her reports on surfing @ http://sanclemente.patch.com/users/jackie-connor/blog_posts .  She writes some great stuff.  

Swayze showed up Thursday morning with a dozen Crispy Cremes and a half gallon of milk.  That's why this dude is my best friend!  This was Swayze's first time surfing, so I geared him up with the "Kamehameha Board".  The first lesson:  Paddle out with me and learn how to sit on your board.  If you can't sit on your board, you'll never be able to stand on it.  Swayze paddled out with me at Uppers, which looked pretty mellow that day.  But right when we got into the lineup, bombs started showing up.  Swayze took some on the head, but he paddled right back out.  He did fine folks, just added 10 pounds with all the water he swallowed.  

Me and Bill Martin from KTVU, Channel 2 News. Homies 4 life!

I met Bill and his daughter a day before Swayze paddled out.  During one of the days at mid afternoon, Bill and I were chilling in front of the flag pole at Uppers and a really good wave approached us from the outside.  Bill looked at me and said "This wave has your name on it B.D., I'll block for you".  Do I have to say anymore about dude?  Truly, a great guy with a great family. 

Memorable moment with Bill:  Big set just came in and I'm looking for Swayze who was chilling on the inside.  I look over and see Bill.  Bill yells "You looking for Swayze?"  I reply "Yeah!"  "I think he took one on the head!" Bill yelled back. We both look down shore and Swayze was on the beach.  We both look at each other and just smiled. 

Swayze falling in love with Mrs. Pacific.

On Thursday, Don Corleone and Knapp Sack showed up and we surfed Uppers until dawn.  While in the lineup, I noticed this really hot chick just ripping!  I paddled a bit closer to check out her "skillz" and to my surprise, it was Alana Blanchard.  

Alana Blanchard @ Uppers.  Photo taken by Don "Corleone" Chase.

Sun Burnt and surfed out, I decided to paddle in and watched Alana rip.  Don Corleone and Knapp Sack handed me a beer and we watched Swayze yelling ouch every 5 seconds as he tried to walk in over the sharp cobble stones of Uppers.  I think we finished three beers before he made his way in.  Oh, and we also watched the beautiful sunset. 

I ended the trip by surfing Lowers like I always do.  I did alright, catching a few good inside waves and a couple bigger ones out back.  But mostly, I was just watching the talent.  Some one had told me that a Women's ASP event was happening at Oceanside.  Being that it was early and a swell was peaking out, a bunch of pro gal's were in the lineup.  I recognized Coco Ho, but none of the others.  Most of the gals in the lineup were pros, having sponsors all over their boards and ripping the shit out of Lowers.  I got tired of the crowds and paddled over to Middles where me and this other silent fella shared a great peak to ourselves for two hours.  Never surfed Middles before, but I will surf it again for sure.  It's not a point break, but then again it's not a beach break either.  Some type of hybrid break.  But that's how all the breaks are at Trestles except for Lowers.  Hybrid breaks that have perfect walls, fun drops, long rides, along with hot chicks and hot surfers.  Paradise on the left coast for sure.   

Two B.D.'s

Homies and surfing.  The good life.  The B.D. and Knapp Sack.

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Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!

Back at "The Hook"

I have this special affinity for "The Hook".  This is the spot where I met a lot of close friends (half of the Kiwi's were formed in this narrow cliff side), learned the tricks of the trade, got cussed out a dozen times, lost respect and ultimately gained respect.  This spot has also cost me a lot in cash for gas and ding repair to say the least.  Even though it is miles away from my home in the Bay, I consider this spot my home break.  Why you ask?  I don't know...  To me, a home break is not a place that you live close too, or where you grew up surfing.  If that was the case, then Banyans and Magic Sands on the Big Island would be my spot.  But no, it's a place that you hold an "affinity" for.  And The Hook, with all that comes with it, holds that type of kinship with me.  I could be miles away, surfing unbelievable waves, but for some odd reason, I'm always thinking "How's The Hook doing today"...

Super early Dawn Patrol

Panama Red texted me on Sunday, August 12th about some south swell going down in Santa Cruz. He said the tides had been funny and our favorite spot nowdays wasn't going to work.  I checked the tides and from experience, swell + incoming tide = The Hook.  We both contemplated this decision, knowing that the crowds and locals would be in full effect.  But we made it a go.

To our surprise on that Monday, the crowds were pretty low and the locals that were out, we knew.  Panama Red is one of those Santa Cruz "Locals", good guy to have around in crowded peaks like The Hook.  Plus I knew a couple of the peeps and old timers, which made it really fun.

We got out there around six in the morning and it was firing 3'-6' faces.  Panama Red caught some straight bombs into Sharks.  The B.D. on the other hand was catching fast droppy closeouts.  I have to give it to Panama, he is definitely got his A game going.  He's been training pretty hard, surfing dawnies and saying no to the brew and it's been paying off. 

Later on in our sesh, I was lucky enough to catch a long curtain call all the way down to the cove.  I set up right in between First and Four Windows, whistled a Christmas tune for some odd reason and out of nowhere, a nice peak picked me up and gave me a ride that was worth the ride up and down the hill.  With my good luck, Santacruzwaves.com caught this long ride on camera!

As I was paddling back, I got a bunch of smiles from good folks sitting at third and second.  One fella said to me "I watched you all the way down the line, nice ride and thanks for the show!"  That one comment brightened my week.  I remember a year ago when I was waiting at third bowl and watching guys and gals from "First" dropping in on bombs and slicing them all the way to the cove, wishing one day I could do the same.  Good times.  

But coming back down to earth, a picture tells a thousand words.  I get very critical about my surfing and in this picture I should be crouching lower, back hand touching the water and setting up for a bottom turn.  There are so many things to improve on in my surfing, but then again, I'm so thankful to be doing it.

Even though thoughts of surfing The Hook brings up reluctant looks from my friends and I, this break has brought us plenty of good things outside the water.  One thing is certain, when The Hook is firing, it's one of the best waves in California.  I'll always have a special place in my heart for this break.   

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Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!

Pastrami & Jeff Clark

Bo-Bo

After my extended leave from surfing, I've been working my way back slowly but surely.  My first day back, I tried my luck at the Groin in Bolinas but at the wrong tide.  Even though, it gave me a chance to work myself back into shape.  Plus I got a chance to stop by the Bolinas market and get some good 'ol American food as in the pastrami sandwich!  Oh, how I missed you pastrami! But I don't know if pastrami's gonna help me get back into shape...

Everybody uses the backdoor at Bolinas.

My second time out, I hit up Linda Mar with my nephew.  It's his second time out, but he's for sure a natural.  He can already paddle into waves, stand up and surf down the line.  Being the crazy kid that he is, he got bored with Linda Mar and wanted to go to Ocean Beach.  He paddled out with me and a couple of the Kiwi Hippies and held his own.  Just don't tell his mom that I took him to Miss O.B.  His mom will give me a harder beating then a paddle out at Ocean Beach on a "12ft @ 8 seconds" day.  

My nephew, the next Slater.  He just needs a smaller board.

For my third session since getting back, I headed out with Manav and Ton-Gee to Rockaway.  We were split on whether to surf Ocean Beach, The Jetty or Montara.  Since we were all short on time and O.B. was being her O.B. self that morning, we headed to our next closest favorite break and it was firing and uncrowded.  I don't know where the waves were coming from because the Buoys were saying the opposite.  But for a good two hours, the waves were chest high.  In some sets it was even in the head to one foot over head range.  The right at the Rock was working great and I even got crowned on one wave. Can't ask for anything more in the summer!

Bone Yard

Today, I took my nephew out to the Mavericks.  We sat on the beach just before Bone Yard and I told him the history of this historic break. I told him about the legends who left their lives here and how this break only goes off during the winter months when the north swells howl.  We talked about Jeff Clark and how he paddled out alone for 15 years to surf one of the biggest, most gnarliest and deadliest waves in the world.  My nephew was mesmerized by Jeff's story and how brave Jeff must have been back in those days.

My nephew wanted to stop by Jeff's shop to check out some of his pictures.  As we walked in, Jeff was standing at the front door.  Jeff was very gracious and I told him how ironic this moment was as I was just telling my nephew about his legend.  

Phillyman (my nephew) and Jeff Clark

My nephew was stoked to have met Jeff and so was I.  Jeff told my nephew that the reason why he paddled out alone for 15 years was because no one else would paddle out with him.  He also wished my nephew good luck with his surfing journey.  Outstanding fella! 

Here is video I shot during the last Maverick's competition back in 2012:

As I try to get back into surf shape, I'm pretty stoked that my nephew is stoked about surfing.  He's a great kid and he's gonna be a great surfer!  I hope in the future we'll be taking surf trips to far off lands and taking down barrels during dawn patrols when the whole world is still dreaming.  One day for sure....  One day.

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Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!

Sometimes Linda Puts On Her Best Dress

I cruised up to Linda Mar on a desperate plea and to my f'king surprise, good ol' Linda put on her makeup today.  The waves weren't perfect by no stretch of the imagination, but they were coming in fast, thick and hard (no pun intended).

I found myself out in front of Taco Bell, getting tackled by huge sets of sweetness.  I was catching some and in most circumstances, taking it on the dome (but with love).  After having a week full of watching what appeared to be the great lakes at Pacifica and at Ocean Beach, Linda put on her best Muu'muu and gave me a show that I have been ever thankfully waiting for.

After a few thrashings in front of the home of the Chalupa, I headed to the docks where I was all alone in front of the second house, catching some short but tasty rights.  Within 45 minutes, the word got out and I was surrounded by 5 other tribe's men.  I then paddled over to the docks and joined some of the good 'ol longboard boys at the docks.  I wasn't into trying to compete with the good 'ol boys (I had my 6'6 Webber on hand.  I consider this my longboard), but I didn't have too because some pretty fun, thick sets came in and everybody scored.  I caught a beautiful left, and did three or four backside turns off the top (that I'm very proud of might I say).  The wall on this wave was soooo glassy.  Never thought ol' Linda had it in her.

After the session, I headed back to the parking lot and chatted it up with the boys.  Everybody was pretty stoked to have scored.  The theme of the the day was "Monday became fun day!".  One of the fellas had this sweet tattoo. Reminded me of that Red Hot Chili Peppers song with the lyrics "Throw away your television!"

When I got back to The City, I commemorated this stoked out session with my favorite dish: Kung Pow Pastrami, a side of rice and a Mexican Coke at Mission Chinese.  As I was driving home, this song came on my ipod and it made me think of Linda and how she comes and goes...

Surfboards, Trains and Automoblies the Movie!

Check out the Kiwi Hippies' epic surf trip to Trestles in action!

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Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!