After my extended leave from surfing, I've been working my way back slowly but surely. My first day back, I tried my luck at the Groin in Bolinas but at the wrong tide. Even though, it gave me a chance to work myself back into shape. Plus I got a chance to stop by the Bolinas market and get some good 'ol American food as in the pastrami sandwich! Oh, how I missed you pastrami! But I don't know if pastrami's gonna help me get back into shape...
|Everybody uses the backdoor at Bolinas.|
My second time out, I hit up Linda Mar with my nephew. It's his second time out, but he's for sure a natural. He can already paddle into waves, stand up and surf down the line. Being the crazy kid that he is, he got bored with Linda Mar and wanted to go to Ocean Beach. He paddled out with me and a couple of the Kiwi Hippies and held his own. Just don't tell his mom that I took him to Miss O.B. His mom will give me a harder beating then a paddle out at Ocean Beach on a "12ft @ 8 seconds" day.
|My nephew, the next Slater. He just needs a smaller board.|
Today, I took my nephew out to the Mavericks. We sat on the beach just before Bone Yard and I told him the history of this historic break. I told him about the legends who left their lives here and how this break only goes off during the winter months when the north swells howl. We talked about Jeff Clark and how he paddled out alone for 15 years to surf one of the biggest, most gnarliest and deadliest waves in the world. My nephew was mesmerized by Jeff's story and how brave Jeff must have been back in those days.
My nephew wanted to stop by Jeff's shop to check out some of his pictures. As we walked in, Jeff was standing at the front door. Jeff was very gracious and I told him how ironic this moment was as I was just telling my nephew about his legend.
|Phillyman (my nephew) and Jeff Clark|
My nephew was stoked to have met Jeff and so was I. Jeff told my nephew that the reason why he paddled out alone for 15 years was because no one else would paddle out with him. He also wished my nephew good luck with his surfing journey. Outstanding fella!
As I try to get back into surf shape, I'm pretty stoked that my nephew is stoked about surfing. He's a great kid and he's gonna be a great surfer! I hope in the future we'll be taking surf trips to far off lands and taking down barrels during dawn patrols when the whole world is still dreaming. One day for sure.... One day.
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Mahalo and keep surfing like it's your last wave!